Eunuque by Erté

Erté (Romain de Tirtoff)
1892-1990 | Russian-French

Eunuque

Signed “Erté”(lower right)
Inscribed "No. 13" (en verso)
Gouache and silver on paper

This costume was designed for the character Eunuque from Don Juan for a performance at L'Apollo Théâtre, a historic music hall that was located at 20 rue de Clinchy in Paris’ 9th arrondissement. The play Don Juan, penned by Molière in 1665, is a five-act comedy that draws upon the Spanish legend of Don Juan in Tenorio. The central character, Don Juan, is a libertine who seduces women purely for the thrill of romantic conquest, only to abandon them without a second thought. Adding complexity to his character is his atheism, a theme that gains importance at the end of the play when Don Juan feigns a spiritual awakening, only to die with shame. 

The character of Eunuque, or Eunuch, appears during Don Juan's sojourn in Constantinople, shortly after the protagonist encounters an Englishman grappling with his own romantic complications. Serving as the Sultan's chief attendant, Eunuque is sent to summon Don Juan, as the Sultan's wife has taken an interest in him after spotting him in the marketplace. Although this liaison ultimately proves unsuccessful, the episode illuminates the cultural chasm between Don Juan's European sensibilities and the Sultan's Eastern traditions. Eunuque's attire is a vivid tapestry of his Turkish environment: voluminous pantaloons adorned with grey and orange fabric, complemented by a vest featuring African-inspired patterns, and a cinched waist tie and sleeves crafted from the same material. The character's sartorial statement is crowned by a striking black-and-white striped hat that extends skyward.

The artist, Russian-French visionary Romain de Tirtoff (1892-1990), popularly known as Erté, began his artistic journey in the culturally rich city of St. Petersburg, where he developed an early fondness for ballet and theatrical performances. He moved to Paris in 1912 to study architecture, and quickly found his creative niche in crafting fantastical costumes for the city’s bustling nightlife. Erté‘s expertise, refined under the guidance of the famed Paul Poiret, captured the attention of Harper’s Bazaar, marking the beginning of a significant partnership that spanned from 1915 to 1936. The artist also designed sets for notable cinematic masterpieces including Ben Hur and La Bohème, and created sets and costumes for cabarets, operas and other performances at the Folies-Bergères, Bal Tabarin, the Théâtre du Bataclan and Le Casino de Paris. Often remembered as the “Father of Art Deco,” Erté was a trailblazer whose colorful creations shaped the groundbreaking Art Deco era more than any other, leaving an indelible mark on the history of art and design. His artworks reside in prestigious museum collections worldwide, including the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, the Victoria & Albert Museum in London and the Los Angeles County Museum of Art. 

Painted 1921

Paper: 12“ high x 9 1/4” wide
Frame: 19 11/8“ high x 16” wide x 3/4" deep

Exhibitions:
M.S. Rau, New Orleans, Erté and the Era of Art Deco, October 14, 2023 - January 3, 2024

Provenance:
Serge Leeman’s Personal Collection
Private collection, Paris
M.S. Rau, New Orleans