CANVASES, CARATS AND CURIOSITIES

• Intricate pieces using gold, silver, lapis lazuli and carnelian
• Featured crescent moons, rosettes and filigree work
• Primarily served religious or ceremonial purposes
• Developed pioneering techniques like granulation and cloisonné
• Established technical foundations that influenced jewelry making for millennia

Egyptian Jewelry (c. 3000-30 BCE)

• Some of the most colorful and symbolic adornments of the ancient world
• Considered gold the flesh of the gods
• Assigned specific symbolic meanings to colored gemstones and glass
• Created distinctive styles including broad collar necklaces, pectoral ornaments and elaborate headdresses
• Featured iconic motifs like the scarab beetle (symbolizing rebirth) and ankh (representing life)
• Pioneered techniques in casting and stone setting that remain relevant today

Classical Greek Jewelry (c. 800-31 BCE)

• Displayed unparalleled technical refinement with naturalistic motifs
• Excelled in creating delicate gold wirework and granulation
• Produced earrings, necklaces and diadems with remarkable detail
• Featured laurel leaves, acorns, amphoras and mythological figures
• Prioritized the beauty of metalwork over gemstones
• Primarily used gold with occasional garnet, rock crystal and glass

Roman Jewelry (c. 500 BCE- 500 CE)

• Combined Greek aesthetic principles with Etruscan technical achievements
• Popularized colored gemstones, including emeralds, sapphires and pearls from across the empire
• Elevated finger rings as symbols of social status
• Used engraved signet rings for document authentication
• Developed cameos and intaglios to depict emperors, deities and historical scenes
• Demonstrated sophisticated lapidary skills through stone carving

Early Medieval to Renaissance

Byzantine Jewelry (c. 330-1453 CE)

• Married Roman techniques with Eastern influences
• Featured vibrant enameling, abundant gemstones and religious iconography
• Developed distinctive cloisonné enamel work with deep blues, greens and reds
• Used purple stones like amethyst and garnet to reflect the sacred imperial color
• Created religious pendants and reliquaries of significant spiritual importance
• Incorporated Christian symbols and imagery throughout designs

Islamic Jewelry (c. 610-1900)

• Developed distinctive characteristics while incorporating techniques from conquered regions
• Excelled in filigree, granulation and stone setting
• Featured calligraphic motifs, geometric patterns and stylized flora
• Adapted designs to accommodate religious restrictions on figurative art
• Created innovative designs with silver and base metals due to restrictions on men wearing gold
• Produced amulets containing Quranic verses that served protective functions

Renaissance to Pre-Modern Eras

Renaissance Jewelry (14th-17th centuries)

• Renewed interest in classical learning and humanism
• Created detailed portrait miniatures, religious pendants and elaborate goldwork
• Advanced enameling techniques, particularly painted enamel, allowing for unprecedented detail
• Developed more sophisticated gemstone settings, with table-cut diamonds gaining popularity
• Designed pendants, earrings and hat ornaments featuring allegorical and mythological scenes
• Created pieces that reflected the intellectual interests of elite patrons

Baroque Jewelry (17th-18th centuries)

• Embraced drama, movement and light effects
• Developed new diamond cutting techniques that maximized brilliance
• Created elaborate girandole earrings with three dangling elements to catch candlelight
• Designed stomacher brooches to adorn women's bodices with cascading gemstone elements
• Emphasized symmetry, naturalistic motifs and three-dimensional compositions
• Established diamond's primacy in jewelry design

Rococo Jewelry (c. 1720-1770)

• Celebrated asymmetry, delicacy and playfulness
• Featured bows, ribbons, flowers and feathers in light, airy designs
• Utilized gold and enamel for distinctive color effects
• Arranged gemstones in naturalistic patterns mimicking bouquets
• Set diamonds in silver to enhance their whiteness, with gold providing structural support
• Created aigrette hair ornaments, châtelaines and ornamental watches
• Emphasized frivolity and refinement throughout designs

Georgian to Mid-20th Century

Georgian Jewelry (1714-1830)

• Evolved across more than a century of changing tastes
• Featured naturalistic motifs reflecting Enlightenment interest in science
• Later incorporated neoclassical elements inspired by archaeological discoveries at Pompeii and Herculaneum
• Utilized cannetille work (fine wire filigree) to conserve precious metals during wartime shortages
• Developed memorial jewelry containing hair of deceased loved ones
• Created sentimental pieces with hidden messages and symbolism

Victorian Jewelry (1837-1901)

• Evolved through distinct phases mirroring Queen Victoria's life experiences
• Early Victorian (Romantic): Featured sentimental motifs like hearts, bows and naturalistic elements
• Mid-Victorian (Grand): Responded to mourning with somber materials like jet, onyx and dark garnets
• Late Victorian: Embraced whimsical motifs including crescents, stars and sporting themes
• Introduced technical innovations including electroplating, making decorative metals more accessible
• Incorporated symbolism and hidden meanings throughout designs
• Popularized charm bracelets, mourning jewelry and sentimental pieces

Art Nouveau Jewelry (1890-1910)

• Celebrated organic, flowing lines inspired by natural forms
• Elevated jewelry to fine art status through masters like René Lalique and Louis Comfort Tiffany
• Innovative use of materials including horn, glass, enamel and non-precious stones
• Prominently featured the female form, insects, flowers and mythological creatures
• Employed plique-à-jour enamel for translucent, stained-glass-like effects
• Favored opals, moonstones and pearls for their subtle, shifting colors
• Created ethereal, dreamlike quality through sinuous lines and natural motifs

Edwardian Jewelry (1901-1915)

• Embraced delicacy, refinement and elegant femininity
• Widely adopted platinum for incredibly detailed metalwork
• Featured filigree, pierced designs and milgrain (tiny beaded edges)
• Created signature white-on-white designs combining diamonds and pearls
• Incorporated garland motifs, bows, tassels and lace-like effects
• Characterized by Belle Époque elegance celebrating aristocratic refinement
• Represented the last great period of traditional European luxury before WWI

Art Deco Jewelry (1920-1935)

• Embraced modernity through bold geometric designs and strong color contrasts
• Drew influence from Cubism, Bauhaus, ancient Egyptian art and machine aesthetics
• Rejected historical revivalism in favor of contemporary dynamism
• Utilized precision calibré-cut colored stones to fit together without visible metal
• Created geometric diamond arrangements and contrasting color combinations
• Frequently incorporated contrasting materials like onyx, coral and jade
• Defined by major houses including Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels and Boucheron
• Continues to heavily influence contemporary designers

Retro Jewelry (1935-1970)

• Responded to wartime material restrictions with bold, three-dimensional designs
• Used rose and yellow gold instead of platinum, which was needed for military applications
• Incorporated patriotic motifs and Hollywood-inspired glamour
• Featured oversized links, gas-pipe tubing techniques and sculptural forms
• Created large-scale pieces featuring ribbons, bows and floral motifs
• Utilized synthetic rubies and sapphires to supplement natural stones
• Developed manufacturing innovations that allowed for more affordable production
• Combined industrial influences with feminine motifs

Contemporary Jewelry Movements

Modern Designer Jewelry (1950-Onwards)

• Rejected historical references and traditional notions of preciousness
• Treated jewelry as wearable sculpture through artists like Alexander Calder, Art Smith and Margaret De Patta
• Featured asymmetry, kinetic elements and unconventional materials
• Developed signature motifs as brand identifiers (Elsa Peretti's bean shapes, Paloma Picasso's X patterns, David Yurman's cable designs)
• Established enduring design languages that transcend fashion trends
• Expanded definitions of what constitutes fine jewelry
• Prioritized design innovation over traditional craftsmanship

Minimalist Jewelry Trend (1990s-present)

• Emphasized clean lines, geometric forms and unadorned surfaces
• Drew influence from architectural principles and Japanese aesthetic concepts
• Rejected ornamentation in favor of essential forms, exemplified by the Tiffany “T” collection
• Featured brushed metal finishes, matte surfaces and monochromatic color schemes
• Continued to resonate with contemporary consumers seeking understated elegance
• Prioritized quality of materials and execution over decorative elements