Animal à cornes, Les Oreilles du Lièvre by Erté

Erté (Romain de Tirtoff)
1892-1990 | Russian-French

Animal à cornes, Les Oreilles du Lièvre
(Animal with horns, Hare's Ears)

Signed “Erté”(lower right)
Inscribed "No. 13.571 / 'Les oreilles du lièvre' / Animal à Corses / (danseuse)" (en verso)
Gouache on paper

Entitled Animal à cornes, this cabaret ensemble serves as a quintessential representation of Erté's unparalleled ability to blend animal-inspired motifs with his iconic Art Deco aesthetic. The ensemble features a form-fitting red bodysuit and tights, each embellished with spots that mimic the natural fur of a hare. The extremities of the model's hands and feet are accentuated by paw-like coverings, complemented by a bustle situated at her lower back.

Erté designed this clever costume for a New Year's Eve production a show called La Maison du plaisir or "House of Pleasure." When creating this ensemble for the subversive and daring production, the artist called upon his profound comprehension of literature and theatrical characters. In folklore, the hare often assumes the role of a trickster, a characteristic underscored by the archetype of the hare in fables and stories. Contrary to conventional depictions featuring floppy ears, this hare is distinguished by horn-like appendages, evoking a sense of mischief. The design encapsulates a duality of sentiment—both affection and skepticism—making it an exemplary illustration of Erté's master layering his creations with nuance and significance.

The artist, Russian-French visionary Romain de Tirtoff (1892-1990), popularly known as Erté, began his artistic journey in the culturally rich city of St. Petersburg, where he developed an early fondness for ballet and theatrical performances. He moved to Paris in 1912 to study architecture, and quickly found his creative niche in crafting fantastical costumes for the city’s bustling nightlife. Erté‘s expertise, refined under the guidance of the famed Paul Poiret, captured the attention of Harper’s Bazaar, marking the beginning of a significant partnership that spanned from 1915 to 1936. The artist also designed sets for notable cinematic masterpieces including Ben Hur and La Bohème, and created sets and costumes for cabarets, operas and other performances at the Folies-Bergères, Bal Tabarin, the Théâtre du Bataclan and Le Casino de Paris. Often remembered as the “Father of Art Deco,” Erté was a trailblazer whose colorful creations shaped the groundbreaking Art Deco era more than any other, leaving an indelible mark on the history of art and design. His artworks reside in prestigious museum collections worldwide, including the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, the Victoria & Albert Museum in London and the Los Angeles County Museum of Art. 

Painted 1954

Paper: 11 1/2“ high x 8 1/2 wide
Frame: 17 1/8“ high x 14 1/8” wide x 3/4" deep

Exhibitions:
M.S. Rau, New Orleans, Erté and the Era of Art Deco, October 14, 2023 - January 3, 2024

Provenance:
Private collection, Paris
Private collection, Russia, 2021
Private collection, Paris, 2022
  Private collection, New Orleans