CANVASES, CARATS AND CURIOSITIES

Estate jewelry refers to items that have had a previous owner. The term encompasses a broad spectrum of styles and periods, though it typically describes jewelry less than 100 years old, distinguishing it from true antiques.

The classification system for previously owned jewelry follows clear chronological boundaries. Works over 100 years old enter the antique category, further subdivided by artistic movements: Georgian, Victorian, Edwardian, Art Nouveau and others. Jewelry from 1920 to 1980 generally falls within the estate designation, including Art Deco, Retro and Mid-Century Modern periods. Contemporary estate pieces date from the 1980s forward.

Why do people like Estate Jewelry?

Estate jewelry appeals to sophisticated collectors for several reasons. These items offer access to craftsmanship techniques and design aesthetics no longer widely practiced. Art Deco platinum settings, for instance, showcase intricate milgrain work and geometric patterns difficult to replicate today. Retro gold piecces feature bold sculptural forms that defined an era. Combine this design factor with the rising price of gold, and retro gold objects can offer an opportunity to acquire beautiful, sculptural masterpieces that would be even more expensive to create today

Perhaps most compelling, estate jewelry provides extraordinary jewels that transcend typical commercial offerings. Each represents a singular combination of design, craftsmanship and history—allowing collectors to acquire genuinely distinctive jewelry that stands apart from mass-market alternatives.

Appeal of Unique Jewelry

Estate jewelry defies conventional market logic. While most industries see diminished value in previously owned items, jewelry operates by different principles entirely.

Consider the fundamental nature of gemstones. These treasures formed over millions of years in the earth's depths. A ruby mined yesterday possesses the same chemical composition and brilliance as one unearthed a century ago. The world's most magnificent gems have already been discovered—many now reside in estate items awaiting their next chapter.

Yet gemstones tell only part of the story. The artistry distinguishes truly exceptional jewelry. Master craftsmen historically created pieces for specific patrons, incorporating personal symbolism and individual taste into each commission. These weren't mass-produced items but singular expressions of artistic vision and technical mastery.

Consider the tradition of bespoke engagement rings. Partners carefully select or commission designs that reflect their beloved's personality and preferences. For many, this represents their sole experience with personalized jewelry creation—working alongside skilled artisans to realize their vision. Estate jewelry extends this intimate tradition, offering designs that once embodied someone else's dreams and desires.

Elizabeth Taylor understood this philosophy profoundly. Her legendary collection included both commissioned works and treasured estate jewelry. She considered herself a temporary custodian rather than an owner, cherishing each item’s provenance and romantic history. Taylor recognized that wearing estate jewelry means participating in an ongoing narrative—connecting with previous collectors who shared similar aesthetic passions and love for history.

Age vs. Style: The Key Difference Explained

While chronological age provides the primary framework for categorizing jewelry, this system fails to capture the complex interplay between historical styles and contemporary craftsmanship.

Consider Taylor Swift's engagement ring, created by Kindred founder Katerina Perez Lubeck at Artifex Fine Jewelry. The centerpiece—an Old European cut diamond from the mid-1800s—exemplifies this complexity. Though the stone itself qualifies as antique, the setting represents contemporary artisanship inspired by historical techniques. The diamond's hand-cut facets produce a distinctive glow, softer and more romantic than modern precision cuts. These imperfections and variations in light return create a character impossible to replicate with today's laser-cutting technology.

Such antique cut diamonds have become increasingly coveted, their scarcity driving demand among collectors who value individuality over standardized brilliance. The subtle asymmetries and deeper pavilions characteristic of 19th-century cutting techniques produce a warmth and personality absent from modern stones, especially lab-grown diamonds. Sourcing these gems requires expertise—typically through established auction houses or specialized dealers who understand their rarity.

The revival of historical styles further complicates traditional categories. Contemporary artisans like Lubeck deliberately employ Art Deco geometries and Victorian techniques, creating designs that defy simple classification. A ring might feature authentic 1920s design principles, executed with modern precision, set with an antique stone. Is it estate? Contemporary? The answer depends on which element you prioritize. Each piece exists at the intersection of multiple histories, making expertise essential for proper evaluation and appreciation. And isn’t that what makes collecting so fun?

Browse more of our jewelry guides for help finding your next great antique or estate jewelry treasure.