Les jeux by Erté

Erté (Romain de Tirtoff)
1892-1990 | Russian-French

Les jeux
(The Games) 

Signed “Erté” (lower right)
Inscribed “Le Jeux / Mah-Jongg / No. 11.878” (en verso)

Gouache and gold on paper

Erté renders a stylish gold, black and red costume titled Les jeux (The games), for a character in the production of Mah-Jongg, a production that shares its name with a tile-based game originating from China in the 19th century. The game combines skill, strategy and luck, and its popularity quickly spread around both Asia and the world. Les jeux, the title of this costume, implies this character was likely a “playmaker” figure during the performance. 

In this intriguing design, Erté‘s bare-chested model is adorned with striking and vibrant elements, evoking the essence of traditional Chinese fireworks and deity-inspired attire. Her headpiece stands out with antenna-like arches with red fireworks at their tips, forming an intricate frame around two prominent red horns, completing the opulent red and gold ensemble. Instead of a conventional chest covering, she wears a black and golden shoulder piece, accentuated by majestic red feathered wings that stretch upward. Apart from her fingers, which resemble matchsticks, the only other piece of clothing is a petite skirt comprised of tile-like shingles, all intricately embellished with Chinese characters and figures. In a rare instance, the artist inscribes his gouache work with a pencil caption in the lower right that reads, “Costumes, nails, hairpieces.” 

Russian-French visionary Romain de Tirtoff (1892-1990), popularly known as Erté, began his artistic journey in the culturally rich city of St. Petersburg, where he developed an early fondness for ballet and theatrical performances. He moved to Paris in 1912 to study architecture, and quickly found his creative niche in crafting fantastical costumes for the city’s bustling nightlife. Erté‘s expertise, refined under the guidance of the famed Paul Poiret, captured the attention of Harper’s Bazaar, marking the beginning of a significant partnership that spanned from 1915 to 1936. The artist also designed sets for notable cinematic masterpieces including Ben Hur and La Bohème, and created sets and costumes for cabarets, operas and other performances at the Folies-Bergères, Bal Tabarin, the Théâtre du Bataclan and Le Casino de Paris. Erté was a trailblazer whose colorful creations shaped the groundbreaking Art Deco era more than any other, leaving an indelible mark on the history of art and design. His artworks reside in prestigious museum collections worldwide, including the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, the Victoria & Albert Museum in London and the Los Angeles County Museum of Art.

Painted 1951

Paper: 13 1/2" high x 10” wide
Frame: 20 3/4" high x 16 7/8" wide x 3/4" deep

Provenance:
Private collection, Paris
M.S. Rau, New Orleans

Exhibitions:
M.S. Rau, New Orleans, Erté and the Era of Art Deco, October 14, 2023 - January 3, 2024