Tableau d’enfer by Erté

Erté (Romain de Tirtoff)
1892-1990 | Russian-French

Tableau d’enfer

Signed “Erté” (lower right)
Gouache on paper

Created for the Opéra de Lyon’s 1961 production of the opera Castor et Pollux, this costume titled Tableau d’enfer or A Hellish Scene was designed for Act 3 of the opera. Castor et Pollux, an 18th-century French tragic opera, draws from the ancient myth of Castor and Pollux, the origin of the Gemini Twins constellation. The narrative centers on Pollux, bestowed with immortality, and his mortal twin, Castor. Castor's demise catalyzes a pivotal moment: Pollux elects to share his own immortality, reawakening his brother while embracing his own mortality. To rescue Castor, Pollux embarks on an underworld odyssey, battling demons and displaying profound love. This ensemble captures the opera's intense emotions, epitomizing themes of sacrifice, affection and the interplay between mortality and immortality.

Adorned with a headpiece resembling a bat and serpents coiling around her arms, this demon’s attire conjures a hellish realm with spectacular fashion. Featuring a corset embellished with gleaming eyes, a skirt of ebony feathers and boots crowned with serpent motifs, all in fiery red harmony with the gloves, this ensemble seamlessly blend classical and contemporary allure. This costume masterfully unites age-old sensibilities with a modern twist, invoking both the ancient and the avant-garde.

Russian-French visionary Romain de Tirtoff (1892-1990), popularly known as Erté, began his artistic journey in the culturally rich city of St. Petersburg, where he developed an early fondness for ballet and theatrical performances. He moved to Paris in 1912 to study architecture, and quickly found his creative niche in crafting fantastical costumes for the city’s bustling nightlife. Erté‘s expertise, refined under the guidance of the famed Paul Poiret, captured the attention of Harper’s Bazaar, marking the beginning of a significant partnership that spanned from 1915 to 1936. The artist also designed sets for notable cinematic masterpieces including Ben Hur and La Bohème, and created sets and costumes for cabarets, operas and other performances at the Folies-Bergères, Bal Tabarin, the Théâtre du Bataclan and Le Casino de Paris. Erté was a trailblazer whose colorful creations shaped the groundbreaking Art Deco era more than any other, leaving an indelible mark on the history of art and design. His artworks reside in prestigious museum collections worldwide, including the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, the Victoria & Albert Museum in London and the Los Angeles County Museum of Art.

Painted 1961

Paper: 19 1/2“ high x 15” wide
Frame: 25 1/8 high x 20 3/4" wide x 3/4" deep

Provenance:
Private collection, Paris
M.S. Rau, New Orleans