Yes Sir by Erté

Erté (Romain de Tirtoff)
1892-1990 | Russian-French

Yes Sir

Signed “Erté” (lower right)
Inscribed "N° 18366" (en verso)
Gouache on paper

Cheekily titled Yes Sir, this colorful gouache embodies the Art Deco glamour and risqué intrigue for which the Erté’s designs are so beloved. A costume design for famed French ballet dancer, actress and singer Zizi Jeanmaire, this striking pink ensemble showcases Erté’s sartorial genius, exuding the opulence and drama that only Erté, the oft-called “Father of Art Deco,” could achieve.

In this captivating composition, Erté renders Jeanmaire with her signature jet-black short-cropped hair, dramatic smoky eyes and bold rouged lips. She wears a shocking pink bodice with an elaborate bow-shaped bustle, intricate corset detailing and ebony rosettes. Her elegant long legs are emphasized by the costume's daringly short length and a set of sheer black tights. Sensually puffing on a long cigarette, Erté paints a meandering plume of smoke dancing above the crown of Jeanmaire’s head.

Married to choreographer Roland Petit, Zizi Jeanmaire was among the most famous performers in post-war Paris, mingling with creatives from Yves Saint Laurent to Jean Cocteau. Erté developed a close relationship with the couple, designing them clothing and costumes alike. This Erté costume was designed for Jeanmaire to wear for a performance at the famed Casino de Paris, a renowned music hall with a rich history dating back to the 18th century. Following the First World War, the Casino de Paris emerged as one of Paris' most beloved music halls, graced by performances from luminaries such as Josephine Baker, Edith Piaf and Marlene Dietrich, and through the following decades it has remained an iconic hub for rich nightlife, music and entertainment. 

Russian-French visionary Romain de Tirtoff (1892-1990), popularly known as Erté, began his artistic journey in the culturally rich city of St. Petersburg, where he developed an early fondness for ballet and theatrical performances. He moved to Paris in 1912 to study architecture, and quickly found his creative niche in crafting fantastical costumes for the city’s bustling nightlife. Erté‘s expertise, refined under the guidance of the famed Paul Poiret, captured the attention of Harper’s Bazaar, marking the beginning of a significant partnership that spanned from 1915 to 1936. The artist also designed sets for notable cinematic masterpieces including Ben Hur and La Bohème, and created sets and costumes for cabarets, operas and other performances at the Folies-Bergères, Bal Tabarin, the Théâtre du Bataclan and Le Casino de Paris. Often remembered as the “Father of Art Deco,” Erté was a trailblazer whose colorful creations shaped the groundbreaking Art Deco era more than any other, leaving an indelible mark on the history of art and design. His artworks reside in prestigious museum collections worldwide, including the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, the Victoria & Albert Museum in London and the Los Angeles County Museum of Art. 

Dated 1974

Paper: 15” high by 11” wide
Frame: 20 3/4” high by 16 7/8” wide by 3/4" deep

Provenance:
Private collection, Paris
Artcurial Sale, 2015
Private Collection
M.S. Rau, New Orleans