Skip to next element

CANVASES, CARATS AND CURIOSITIES

A Rosy Perspective: Tracing Pink’s Vibrant Past

The History of Pink in Pop Culture: Barbie and Beyond

Amidst the release of Greta Gerwig's 2023 summer blockbuster film Barbie, the color pink embarked on an impressive journey, infiltrating virtually every corner of the popular culture scene. From accessories adorned with Barbie motifs to colorful clothing sported by eager moviegoers, pink established itself as the foremost shade embraced by enthusiasts of the film. A blend of nostalgia with a feminist perspective, pink's revival has prompted a contemplative question: how did pink come to symbolize femininity in the first place?

A Color with Identity: Pink's Distinctive Hue

 
Les roses d'Ispahan by Lucien Lévy-Dhurmer. Circa 1910. M.S. Rau.
 
Les roses d'Ispahan by Lucien Lévy-Dhurmer. Circa 1910. M.S. Rau.

 

A lighter hue of red, pink possesses its own identity — unlike similar tones of “light blue” or “light green.” Its name originates from flowers called pinks, also known as Dianthus plumarius. The verb "to pink," dating back to the 14th century, refers to the act of decorating with a perforated or punched pattern, possibly influenced by the German word "picken," meaning "to peck." Interestingly, this verb remains relevant through the widely used household tool, pinking shears.

 

Sèvres Porcelain and Marie Antoinette: The Pink Renaissance

 
Sèvres Palace Porcelain Urn. Circa 1860. M.S. Rau.
 
Sèvres Palace Porcelain Urn. Circa 1860. M.S. Rau.

 
Though the color pink has been used by cultures since ancient times, a noteworthy figure of the 18th century who helped catapult pink to fashionable fame was Madame de Pompadour, the mistress of Louis XV of France. She played a pivotal role in endorsing the prestigious Sèvres porcelain factory, notably advocating for the incorporation of vibrant pink pigments into the firm’s creations.
 
To serve the preferences of the regal women, Sèvres began to create porcelain products with depictions of women and cherubic figures with distinctively radiant peach-pink complexions, complemented by cheeks flushed with rosy hues. These figures were further embellished with bouquets and cascades of blossoming pink flowers, thus solidifying the prominence of pink as a significant aesthetic element.
 
Later, in pre-revolutionary France, a youthful Queen Marie Antoinette, just a year into her reign, faced criticism from both her husband and her mother, Empress Maria Theresa. They cautioned her about the potentially dire consequences of her "extravagances of fashion," warning that such choices could lead to her falling out of favor in her court and within the court of public opinion. Despite these admonishments, the young queen remained unswayed.
 
Plate 55 from Gallerie des Modes et Costumes Français by Claude Louis Desrais. 1778. Source.
 
Plate 55 from Gallerie des Modes et Costumes Français by Claude Louis Desrais. 1778. Source.

 
King Louis XVI’s dissatisfaction was palpable when he discovered his newly-wedded bride trying on a new shade of pink in silk taffeta. Straying from an appropriate label like "faded rose," which the color closely resembled, King Louis XVI instead coined it "couleur de puce," the hue of fleas.
 
Ironically, the monarch might not have fully comprehended the remarkable influence of his sartorial moniker. Puce-colored gowns swiftly transformed into an unofficial feminine color adopted by the ladies of the French court, illustrating the significant sway of the queen's fashion choices.
 

The Gendered Evolution of Pink: Early Norms

Interestingly an 1893 article about baby clothing published in the New York Times proposed a rather surprising viewpoint. The article advocated for assigning pink to boys and blue to girls, with the interviewee reasoning that boys possessed a more optimistic outlook compared to girls, making pink a suitable choice for them, while the notion of girls embracing a woman's life was portrayed as a "baby blue" prospect. Although this anecdote holds no concrete authority, it mirrors the prevailing gender roles and norms of the 18th to early 20th centuries.

 
Portrait de Coco et Fleurs by Pierre-Auguste Renoir. Circa 1905. M.S. Rau.
 

 

Portrait de Coco et Fleurs by Pierre-Auguste Renoir. Circa 1905. M.S. Rau.
 

During this era, society designated pink, a faded variation of red akin to the hue worn by cardinals and soldiers in scarlet jackets, as the customary color for young boys, destined to mature into men. Conversely, the color blue, associated with the Virgin Mary, was allocated to girls, aligning their attire with the idealized image of womanhood. This norm is reflected in the work of Renoir, for example, who regularly portrayed his sons in pink clothing and ribbons.

 

In Portrait de Coco et Fleurs, Renoir captures his five-year-old son Claude, or Coco, in profile as he focuses on his drawing. Positioned just above this portrait is another of Renoir's beloved themes: a lavish array of flowers, depicted with vivid pink colors and meticulous detailing. The floral arrangement harmonizes with the child's pink blouse and golden blonde hair, collectively infusing the artwork with a poignant blend of sentimental tenderness.

 

The Rise of Shocking Pink: Artistic Interpretations of a Vibrant Hue

Daisy Fellowes’ Colorful Influence: From Diamonds to Perfume
 
Mrs. Reginald (Daisy) Fellowes by John Singer Sargent. 20th century. Source.
 
Mrs. Reginald (Daisy) Fellowes by John Singer Sargent. 20th century. Source.

 
Perhaps the original famous socialite, Daisy Fellowes was a prominent French heiress and fashion icon who harnessed the power or her beauty and influence to become the Paris editor of American Harper's Bazaar. Throughout her lifetime, Daisy Fellowes was a devoted patron and enthusiast of Cartier, relying on the distinguished firm to accessorize her most daring and influential looks.
 

Fellowes’ attention was captivated by the Tête de Bélier ("Ram's Head"), an extraordinary 17.47-carat pink diamond once owned by Russian royalty. Embracing this vibrant pink hue, she wore the diamond to visit with her friend, celebrated designer Elsa Schiaparelli. Equally overwhelmed by the gem's beauty, Schiaparelli later characterized the diamond's hue as "bright, impossible, impudent, becoming, life-giving, like all the lights and the birds and the fish in the world together." Thus, with the seal of approval from two of fashion's leading luminaries, the pink hue was once again en vogue for women all over the world.

 
Fancy Vivid Pink Diamond Ring, 1.24 Carats. M.S. Rau.
 

 

Fancy Vivid Pink Diamond Ring, 1.24 Carats. M.S. Rau.
 

Surrealists and Pink: Artistic Interpretations of a Vibrant Hue

Schiaparelli's fascination with the pinkish hue did not end there. She quickly commissioned the work of surrealist painter Leonor Fini to design Schiaparelli's inaugural perfume bottle in 1937. Appropriately christened "shocking," the perfume itself managed to encapsulate the audacious spirit inherent in this particular color.

 
Vintage “Shocking by Schiaparelli ad. One can see the famous bottle perched on the lady’s back. Circa 1937. Source.
 

 

Vintage “Shocking by Schiaparelli ad. One can see the famous bottle perched on the lady’s back. Circa 1937. Source.
 

This project, along with Schiaparelli’s subsequent use of “shocking pink” throughout her oeuvre, helped give rise to the hue’s ascension as the quintessential couture shade embraced by those with an eye for design and innovation. Along with Fini, other Surrealists eagerly embraced this new hue. Henri Magritte, for example, adopts a warm pink-hued palette in his remarkable work, Le carnaval du sage, painted after World War II.

 

While firmly rooted in Surrealism, the understated yet radiant hues filling the background of the artwork underscore the influence of Impressionism on Magritte, specifically drawing from the style of Pierre-Auguste Renoir. The central figure, in and of herself, exudes a distinct Renoir-like quality, reminiscent of the artist's late monumental nudes, with their bronzed skin and heightened warmth.

 
Le carnaval du sage by René Magritte. 1947.  M.S. Rau.
 

 

Le carnaval du sage by René Magritte. 1947.
M.S. Rau.
 

Pink on the Silver Screen: How Film Shaped the Color's Legacy

 
Marilyn Monroe Color Headshot by Lawrence Schiller. Circa 1962. M.S. Rau.
 
Marilyn Monroe Color Headshot by Lawrence Schiller. Circa 1962. M.S. Rau.

 

In 1953, during the production of the film Gentlemen Prefer Blondes, the task of creating a dress that was simultaneously "modest" yet alluring for the movie's leading lady, Marilyn Monroe, fell upon costume designer William Travilla. This assignment centered around a pivotal scene where Monroe would perform the now-iconic song "Diamonds Are a Girl's Best Friend."

 
Marilyn Monroe in the trailer for the film Gentlemen Prefer Blondes. 1953. Source.
 

 

Marilyn Monroe in the trailer for the film Gentlemen Prefer Blondes. 1953. Source.
 

The decision was influenced by concerns stemming from Monroe's recent appearance in a nude magazine spread, which prompted executives to be cautious about her image and its potential impact on the film's perception. The result, Monroe's shocking pink dress, is now considered one of Hollywood's most renowned examples of pink attire, an embodiment of Monroe's electrifying charisma and the enduring power of wearing pink.

 

Beyond Aesthetics: Exploring Pink's Societal and Cultural Impact

Pink, a color that graces both the skies during sunrises and sunsets and the vibrant blossoms of spring, stands as a steadfast presence in both nature and culture. It holds the power to evoke a range of emotions, from joy and affection to the warmth of love and its historical ties to fashion emphasize its enduring significance. As the tides of time shift, pink art, clothing, decor and accessories remain an influential force, symbolizing culturally significant ideologies.
 
Just how frequently is “pink” used in common speech? Here are a few common idioms that utilize this famous hue:
  • In the pink of health: To be in excellent health or a good physical condition.
  • Tickled pink: To be extremely pleased, delighted or amused by something.
  • Pink-collar job: A job that is traditionally associated with women, such as roles in nursing, teaching or administrative positions.
  • Pink slip: Being fired or laid off from a job.
  • Seeing pink elephants: Used to describe a hallucination caused by excessive drinking or intoxication.
  • Rose-colored glasses: Looking at a situation with an overly optimistic or positive perspective, often disregarding potential problems or difficulties.
  • Pinkie promise: A childlike gesture where two people interlock their pinkie fingers as a sign of a sincere promise or agreement.
 
Interested in more pink? Explore our collections of pink objet d’art and floral fine art for more rosy inspiration!

WANT MORE BLOGS AND ARTICLES LIKE THIS?

Sign up below to be the first to know about new acquisitions, exhibits, blogs and more.

back to top
back to top