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CANVASES, CARATS AND CURIOSITIES

Brewed in History: The Cultural Legacy of Coffee

History of Coffee Cultivation and Production

The tale of coffee's discovery begins in the 15th century near the Red Sea, in the regions of Ethiopia and Yemen. It is said that a goatherd named Kaldi noticed his goats becoming more energetic and alert after consuming the berries of a certain tree. This chance observation led to the roasting of these energizing berries, the cultivation of the coffee plant and the eventual introduction of coffee as a beverage.

The Coffee Bearer by John Frederick Lewis. 1857. Source.
  The Coffee Bearer by John Frederick Lewis. 1857. Source.


The cultivation of coffee began in the Arabian Peninsula, where early practitioners refined the techniques of roasting, grinding, and brewing the beans into a bitter yet aromatic beverage. As coffee's popularity spread, it became an essential part of social gatherings and religious rituals in the region, quickly rising to prominence as a key trade commodity alongside cattle and sheep.

One of the earliest and most influential writers on coffee was Abd al-Qadir al-Jaziri, who in 1587 compiled a significant work titled Umdat al-Safwa fi Hill al-Qahwa, which traced the history of coffee and addressed the legal controversies surrounding its consumption. Al-Jaziri emphasized coffee’s appeal, noting that it dispelled fatigue and lethargy while invigorating the body with newfound energy and liveliness.

In Yemen, Sufi mystics used coffee to enhance their concentration and as a form of spiritual intoxication during their devotions. The beverage helped them stay awake during evening prayers and aided in their meditative practices, particularly when chanting the name of God. Coffeehouses began to spring up near university centers in Egypt and Syria, serving as hubs for intellectual and social interaction. This explains why European travelers encountered coffee so easily during their journeys in these regions.

One such traveler, the German physician and botanist Leonhard Rauwolf, was the first European to document coffee. He noted its presence in Aleppo in 1573, referring to it as "chaube." This early European account marks the beginning of coffee's gradual introduction to the West, where it would eventually become a beloved and widespread drink.

Coffee in Europe: The Rise of Coffee Houses

Coffee house in the Augarten, opened during the Vienna World Fair in 1873. Source.
  Coffee house in the Augarten, opened during the Vienna World Fair in 1873. Source.


Coffee first arrived in Europe during the 16th century, quickly gaining popularity in bustling port cities such as Venice, London, and Paris. Its introduction followed two main trade routes. The first was through the vast Ottoman Empire, which facilitated the transportation of goods like coffee deep into Europe. The second route originated in the port of Mocha in Yemen, where the East India Company purchased large quantities of coffee and transported them to the European mainland. As this valuable bean spread throughout the world, so did the social need to ritualize the act of drinking it, much like tea or any other libation. Communal and aromatic, the act of drinking coffee became almost as alluring as the “perk” of being in a caffeinated state.

As coffee spread, coffeehouses were established across the continent, becoming vibrant hubs of social and intellectual life. These establishments attracted intellectuals, artists, and merchants, providing a space for lively discussions, debates on current events and the enjoyment of coffee’s stimulating effects.

One of the most renowned coffeehouses in Europe was the Café Procope in Paris, established in 1689. It swiftly became a central meeting place for key figures of the Enlightenment, including Voltaire, Rousseau and Benjamin Franklin, who frequented the café to exchange ideas and philosophies that would go on to shape the modern world. Some scholars, albeit with a touch of humor, have even suggested that the United States—the first nation founded on Enlightenment ideals—might never have come into existence without the influence of coffee.

 
Dutch engraving of Mocha, Yeman in 1692 by Gaspar Bouttats, Lucas Vorstermans and Coenraad Lauwers. Source.
  Dutch engraving of Mocha, Yeman in 1692 by Gaspar Bouttats, Lucas Vorstermans and Coenraad Lauwers. Source.


Arguably the most symbolic moment in coffee's ascent to prominence—and its revolutionary impact on society—was the Boston Tea Party. In 1773, American patriots, in a bold act of defiance against British taxation, cast barrels of English-imported tea into Boston Harbor. This dramatic event not only marked a turning point in the American struggle for independence but also signaled a significant cultural shift. Tea was no longer in vogue in the New World.

In the wake of the Tea Party, American colonists increasingly embraced coffee as their beverage of choice, both as an act of political rebellion and as a practical alternative to tea. This newfound preference for coffee greatly benefited coffee producers in the Caribbean and South America, as demand for coffee beans surged across the American colonies.

A 1652 handbill advertising coffee for sale in St. Michael's Alley, London. Source.
  A 1652 handbill advertising coffee for sale in St. Michael's Alley, London. Source.

Historic Bans on Coffee

Despite its growing popularity in 16th-17th century Europe, coffee faced initial resistance from the Christian Church. Some religious leaders believed that coffee was a sinful beverage that could lead to immoral behavior. However, in 1600, Pope Clement VIII, after tasting coffee, declared, “Why, this Satan’s drink is so delicious that it would be a pity to let the infidels have exclusive use of it. We shall fool Satan by baptizing it and making it a truly Christian beverage.” This papal endorsement helped to legitimize coffee consumption among Christians and contributed to its widespread

Though coffee is now widely enjoyed, it has faced considerable opposition throughout history in various parts of the world—not just in Italy. Below is a brief list of some of the most notable instances of coffee prohibition:

Mecca (1511): The first known coffee ban was imposed by the governor of Mecca, Khair Beg, in 1511. He feared that coffeehouses were becoming hubs of political discussion and dissent, potentially threatening his authority. Additionally, religious scholars claimed that coffee had intoxicating effects similar to alcohol, which was prohibited under Islamic law.

Ottoman Empire (1623–1640): Sultan Murad IV of the Ottoman Empire, known for his harsh rule, banned coffee (along with tobacco and alcohol) as part of his broader effort to control social unrest. He saw coffeehouses as gathering places for rebels and a threat to his reign. Violators were reportedly executed, making this one of the most brutal coffee bans in history.

England (1675): King Charles II of England briefly banned coffeehouses in 1675, claiming they fostered seditious conversations that threatened public order and the monarchy. Coffeehouses had become gathering places for political debate, and Charles II saw them as hotbeds of rebellion. However, public outcry was so strong that the ban was rescinded after just a few weeks.

Prussia (1777): Frederick the Great of Prussia attempted to discourage coffee consumption, advocating for the superiority of beer instead. In a manifesto titled Beer vs. Coffee, he argued that coffee would undermine the beer industry, which was central to the economy, and believed that beer made people stronger and more loyal citizens.

Coffee Accoutrements

Georgian Coffee Jug by Paul Storr. 1801. M.S. Rau.
  Georgian Coffee Jug by Paul Storr. 1801. M.S. Rau.


The methods of brewing and serving coffee have evolved significantly over the centuries. In its earliest form, coffee was brewed by immersing ground beans in hot water, with a cloth used to filter the liquid afterward. By 1710, the process had advanced—coffee grounds were wrapped in linen and placed directly into boiling water to produce a stronger brew. As the popularity of coffee surged throughout the 1700s, so too did the demand for specialized brewing vessels.

Coffee pots were designed with lids to aid the infusion process, and their wide bases helped catch sinking coffee grounds, while spouts allowed for a smoother pour. These innovations not only enhanced the brewing experience but also enabled coffee consumption within the home—a necessity since women were excluded from the thousands of coffeehouses that dotted Europe. Coffee pots thus became central to family life and social gatherings.

As coffee drinking grew in popularity, so did the need for larger quantities of the brew, spurring further advancements in coffee pot design. European silversmiths developed a variety of new vessels to meet the rising demand for tea, coffee, and chocolate. Initially, tapered cylindrical forms were used interchangeably for coffee and chocolate, but by the 18th century, coffee pots had evolved distinct characteristics, such as spouts placed at right angles to the handle, setting them apart from teapots.

Paul Storr Kings Pattern 4-Piece Tea & Coffee Set. 1823-24. M.S. Rau.
  Paul Storr Kings Pattern 4-Piece Tea & Coffee Set. 1823-24. M.S. Rau.


A remarkable example of this evolution is an exquisite early 19th-century silver coffee pot by Paul Storr. This rare and innovative combination of coffee and teapots reflects the cultural shift as coffee rose to prominence alongside traditional tea drinking. Crafted in the distinguished King's Pattern, celebrated for its intricate detailing and refined form, the set showcases Storr's extraordinary silversmithing skills. Adding to its significance, the finial bears the crest of Bertie, Earl of Lindsay, depicting a bearded man's bust crowned with a duke's coronet, imbuing this already exceptional set with aristocratic distinction.

By the early 1800s, new innovations in coffee-making emerged. The first espresso machines and coffee percolators appeared around 1818, and by mid-century, the Napier vacuum coffee machine made its debut in 1840. The invention of the plunger filter followed, and in 1908, the first drip coffee maker further signaled the decline of the traditional coffee pot.

Despite these advancements, antique coffee pots have remained highly collectible and desirable, particularly those made of sterling silver or crafted by renowned makers. Their historical significance, fine craftsmanship and aesthetic appeal ensure they continue to be cherished by collectors today.


Coffee Now

Set of three Panthère de Cartier cups in Limoges porcelain with arabesques motif. 2024. Photo from Cartier.
  Set of three Panthère de Cartier cups in Limoges porcelain with arabesques motif. 2024. Photo from Cartier.


In many ways, the modern coffee experience—with its Keurig machines, instant brews and popular chains offering beverages laden with cream and sugar—seems worlds apart from its humble origins. Yet, despite these changes, the essence of coffee culture endures. Walk into any café or coffee shop today, and you’ll find a diverse array of individuals from all generations: some working on their laptops, others engaging in lively conversations, or simply enjoying a book with a furry companion by their side—all enveloped in the comforting aroma of roasted beans.

Dolce & Gabbana Manual Espresso Machine at Williams and Sanoma. 2024. Photo from Williams and Sanoma.
  Dolce & Gabbana Manual Espresso Machine at Williams and Sanoma. 2024. Photo from Williams and Sanoma.


The coffee industry, now valued at an estimated $200 billion globally, far outpaces the sugar industry, which stands at less than $78 billion. Coffee remains a cornerstone of daily life and has even been elevated to an art form. Luxury brands like Cartier have crafted exquisite pieces such as their iconic panther coffee cups, while Dolce & Gabbana has introduced a Manual Espresso Machine, signaling that haute coffee consumption is here to stay. Whether in a humble mug or a designer cup, coffee continues to be a cherished ritual, a testament to its lasting influence on human society.

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