Throughout the 19th century, tiaras maintained popularity, while becoming increasingly modular, often including brooch or hairpin fittings so individual elements could be worn on the bodice or in the hair when the full tiara wasn’t needed. Floral tiaras could be divided into sprays, wearable as brooches or corsage ornaments. This adaptability made such transformable fine jewelry highly desirable among women of the time.

The art of adornment also became more personal, with emphasis placed on how jewelry fit the wearer’s proportions. While bespoke jewelry of earlier eras naturally addressed this need, the rise of mass-produced or larger-scale artisanal jewelry meant that women had to seek flexibility in their accessories. Transformable pieces—brooches, for instance—offered autonomy, allowing women to position them below the collarbone, at the waist, or even as hair ornaments to suit their individual style. This modular jewelry symbolized the empowerment of the modern woman, offering her the freedom to craft a personalized and dynamic style that adapted effortlessly to the ever-evolving trends of fashion.

A New Century: War Transforms the World

The early 20th century was marked by remarkable innovations in jewelry, including the use of platinum for intricate and delicate designs and the incorporation of rare gemstones from the Near East. These developments showcased jewelry innovation at its finest, blending mechanical precision with artistic grace. However, the outbreak of World War I in 1914 abruptly halted this progress, reshaping the world—and the jewelry industry—with cataclysmic force.

During the war, jewelry production ceased entirely. The grand galas that had once demanded exclusive jewelry designs disappeared, and many exquisite pieces were locked away in vaults or sold to sustain livelihoods. Jewelers, too, were profoundly affected, either enlisting in the military or redirecting their skills toward supporting the war effort. Precious metals were heavily restricted or donated to finance the conflict, leaving the creation of fine designer jewelry at a standstill.

 After the war, a wave of joie de vivre swept across society, with people eager to live fully and forget the hardships of the past. This shift brought significant changes to the role of women, whose experiences during the war had transformed them from delicate, passive ornaments into strong, capable individuals. As they embraced their newfound influence, women sought jewelry that reflected their modern identities—multi-functional jewelry that was practical yet expressive, able to transition effortlessly from day to night.

Gone were the constricting styles of earlier decades. The demand for adaptable jewelry pieces surged, enabling wearers to showcase their individuality and independence. This era also saw a rejection of mass production by luxury jewelry houses like Cartier, which championed one-of-a-kind jewelry crafted with artisanal techniques. Their creative freedom allowed for the development of bespoke designs that celebrated variety, richness and personal expression, setting a precedent for the evolving tastes of the modern era.

Art Deco Style: The Modern Woman

The Art Deco era of the 1920s and 1930s celebrated innovation, elegance and the bold individuality of the modern woman. Jewelry from this period was characterized by its versatile designs, which catered to the dynamic lifestyles of women who embraced both daytime practicality and evening glamour.

Pendant earrings became a hallmark of the time, often paired with matching plaque brooches or necklaces of complementary geometric designs. These multi-functional jewelry pieces were frequently transformed into larger corsage or décolletage ornaments, making them ideal for formal occasions. Diamond necklaces of the era were equally adaptable, constructed so that central motifs could be detached and worn as clips, brooches, pendants or even as bracelets when paired with wide gold bangles. Tubular gold necklaces further enhanced this modular jewelry trend, as they could be easily adjusted for different looks.

Pendant brooches showcased the playful yet elegant spirit of the era. Worn on long, swinging chains, they complemented the flapper style, adding a touch of movement and sparkle during energetic dances. During the day, these brooches transitioned seamlessly into graceful pins. Many were adorned with detachable drops that could be worn as earrings, long epaulettes, or shoulder ornaments. Thanks to the innovative use of platinum, these pieces remained large and impactful yet remarkably lightweight.

The most iconic ornament of the 1930s, however, was the clip. Distinguished by its unique shape—often resembling a mitre or triangular motif—it replaced traditional pins with a sprung plaque-shaped fastening featuring clasped edges. Clips were typically made in pairs and offered unparalleled versatility. They were worn on either side of necklines, along the edges of lapels, or even more daringly, as adornments for evening bags, in the hair, or at the center of belts. 

How to Style Transformable Jewelry

Transformable jewelry offers endless possibilities to elevate your look, but unlocking its full potential requires a bit of insight and creativity. Here's how to style these versatile pieces:

Understand Your Piece

Before experimenting with styling, familiarize yourself with the design and functionality of your jewelry. Look for elements like screws, clasps and modular components that indicate transformability. For example:

These Convertible Gold Bracelets can transition seamlessly from linked bracelets into a stunning necklace.

The David Webb Convertible Yellow Gold Chain offers versatility with detachable sections to adjust its length or convert into bracelets.

Do Your Research

If your piece is antique or retro, dive into the history behind it to understand its original purpose and styling possibilities. Resources like archival catalogs, design literature and historical references can offer valuable insight into how similar pieces were worn in their time.

The Mughal Colored Gemstone and Pearl Pendant Brooch harks back to traditional Mughal designs, offering a glimpse into how such intricate pieces were styled for ceremonial occasions.

Experiment with Styling

Transformable jewelry is all about flexibility, so don’t hesitate to get creative.

Wear a pendant brooch like the Louis Comfort Tiffany Moonstone Pendant Brooch as a hair accessory or pin it to a sash for an unexpected touch of elegance.

Interested in more jewelry? Check out our extensive fine jewelry collections!