While the global fashion industry we know today may be a modern phenomenon, clothing and jewelry have always been significant facets of human culture. For millennia, fashion has served as a reflection of societal norms, economic conditions and even climatic influences. The ancient world—with its rich tapestry of cultures, civilizations, and empires—offers a unique glimpse into the evolution of fashion.
The icons of the Greco-Roman world are all around us, but the fashion choices on famous sculptures and monuments are often overlooked. Have you ever seen the Statue of Liberty and thought, “What is she wearing?“ Lady Liberty is actually draped in a particularly elaborate Roman outfit featuring a stola and palla, the signature garments of elite Roman women. Keep reading to learn more about ancient styles and their symbolism.
Ancient Roman Fashion
Wrapped in LuxuryAncient Roman fashion was characterized by elegance, practicality and social status, similar to their Greek counterparts. Common garments included the tunica, stola and toga, with many variations in between.
Tunica: Worn by both men and women, the tunica was a basic garment similar to the Greek chiton. It was a simple, long shirt made from two pieces of fabric sewn together at the sides and shoulders, typically made of wool or linen. The length and decoration of the tunica could indicate the wearer's social status.
Stola: The stola was the traditional dress of Roman women, worn over the tunica. It was a long, sleeveless garment that reached the ankles and was often belted under the bust, creating a flowing effect. The stola signified a woman’s marital status and was commonly worn by married women. Wealthy elite women often wore a heavy cloak called a palla over their stola when leaving the home.
Toga: The toga was a distinctive garment that symbolized Roman citizenship. It was a large, semicircular piece of woolen cloth draped over the tunica. Togas were worn exclusively by men, with different styles and colors indicating various social ranks and offices. The toga praetexta, for instance, had a purple border and was worn by magistrates and freeborn boys, while the toga picta, with its elaborate embroidery, was reserved for victorious generals and emperors.
Material Matters
Romans utilized a variety of fabrics depending on the season and the wearer’s place in society. Like the Greeks, Romans used wool and linen for their versatility, easy availability and their uses in both hot and cold weather. Although rare and expensive, silk was a highly prized fabric worn by the Roman elites. It was imported from China along the Silk Road and symbolized the utmost wealth and luxury.Jewelry and Adornment
Jewelry was an essential aspect of Roman fashion, serving decorative and symbolic purposes for both men and women. It was used to display wealth, status and personal taste, with different styles and materials indicating varying levels of social prestige. Women typically adorned themselves more lavishly, with elaborate necklaces, earrings and hairpins, while men preferred rings and brooches to fasten their cloaks.
Roman jewelry was crafted from a wide array of materials, including gold, silver, bronze and precious gemstones like emeralds, rubies and pearls. Glass beads and semi-precious stones such as amethyst and garnet were also popular. The craftsmanship of Roman jewelers was highly sophisticated, incorporating intricate designs and advanced techniques such as granulatiom, filigree and intaglio. With the expansion of the Roman Empire, extensive trade networks brought new materials and styles into Roman jewelry, including influences from Egypt, Greece and the Near East.
Common jewelry pieces included rings, bracelets, necklaces, earrings, brooches and hairpins. Rings were particularly significant, often used to signify authority and social rank. Wealthy Romans wore multiple rings, sometimes on every finger, showcasing their prosperity and taste. Amulets and talismans were also worn to ward off evil spirits and bring good luck, and serpents were common motifs that were often believed to offer protection and rebirth.
Social Status and Style
In Roman society, clothing was a significant indicator of social status, citizenship and office. They instituted sumptuary laws that regulated the types of garments and fabrics that could be worn by different classes to maintain social order. For instance, the laws around women’s attire were quite strict during the Republic era as they attempted to codify and regulate all aspects of their democratic society. Around 200 BCE Roman women were not allowed to wear more than a half ounce of gold or wear a dress containing multiple colors.Garment colors held a strong significance more broadly, with certain hues belonging only to particular social strata or professions. For example, augurs were the only citizens allowed to wear a bold saffron yellow toga, and the Emperor himself was the sole person permitted to wear a toga made entirely of purple, known as the toga trabea.
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Emperor Justinian and his retinue. Mosaic detail at the Basilica of San Vitale, Ravenna. Circa 570 AD. Source.
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Ancient Greek Fashion
Fabulous FoldsIn ancient Greece, fashion was marked by simplicity and functionality. Both men and women adorned themselves in garments that were often draped and pinned rather than sewn. The primary pieces of clothing included the chiton, peplos and himation.
Chiton: A basic tunic worn by both genders, the chiton was made from a single rectangular piece of fabric, usually linen or wool, draped and fastened at the shoulders with pins or brooches. Men typically wore shorter chitons, while women’s chitons were ankle-length.
Peplos: Worn exclusively by women, the peplos was a single large piece of woolen fabric, folded down at the top to create a double layer, then wrapped around the body and secured at the shoulders. The open side was usually pinned or sewn, and the garment was often belted at the waist.
Himation: A versatile cloak worn over the chiton or peplos, the himation was a rectangular piece of cloth draped over the left shoulder and wrapped around the body. It could serve as a warm outer layer in cooler weather or a more formal attire for both men and women.
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Young Mother Contemplating Two Embracing Children by William-Adolphe Bouguereau. Dated 1861. M.S. Rau.
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Material Matters
The choice of fabric in ancient Greek fashion was heavily influenced by the climate and available resources, with linen and wool being the most common materials used. For the hot Mediterranean climate, linen was light, breathable and comfortable, and it was made from flax plants, which were abundant in the region.
Sheep farming was also prevalent in Greece, making wool a readily available resource. It was used for warmer garments, such as the himation, and for more formal or ceremonial attire due to its durability and the ease with which it could be dyed in various colors.
Social Status and Style
In ancient Greece, clothing was a marker of social status and wealth. Elite individuals could afford elaborately draped garments made with finer fabrics that were often dyed in expensive colors. Tyrian purple, otherwise known as shellfish purple, was not only an exclusive dye, but one of the most costly products in all of antiquity—worth more than three times its weight in gold, according to a Roman edict issued in 301 AD.Interestingly, no one living today knows how to make this purple dye, with its elaborate recipe lost by the 15th century. Difficult to extract from the environment and intensive to produce, purple-dyed garments became an obvious marker of power and wealth in the ancient world.
Ancient Egyptian Fashion
Fit for Royalty
Egyptian fashion was distinct for its emphasis on draped and pleated garments. The hot, arid climate of Egypt necessitated lightweight clothing made from natural fibers like linen.
Loincloths and shenti: The most basic garment for men was the loincloth, often worn by laborers and commoners. The shenti, a simple kilt-like garment, was more common among the general population and higher classes. It was typically made from linen and wrapped around the waist, secured with a belt.
Shewia and kalasiris: Women’s attire included the shewia, a simple dress made from a single piece of linen draped over the body and fastened at the shoulders. The kalasiris was a more elaborate dress that could be pleated and adorned with intricate patterns, often worn by wealthier women.
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Young Cleopatra and the Fortune Teller by Anatolio Scifoni. Dated 1870. M.S. Rau. Sold.
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Jewelry and Adornment
Jewelry played a crucial role in Egyptian fashion, serving not just as decoration but also as a symbol of status and protection. Egyptian jewelry was crafted from a variety of materials, including gold, silver, semi-precious stones and faience—a glazed ceramic material known for its electric blue color. The craftsmanship was highly advanced, with intricate designs that included motifs of gods, animals and symbols believed to offer protection.Common pieces included collars, bracelets, rings and earrings, with wealthy Egyptians adorning themselves with multiple layers of jewelry—each piece contributing to their overall status and aesthetic appeal.
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Social Standing, Simple Clothing
Unlike in Greece and Rome, where complex clothing often indicated higher status, in Egypt social standing was more commonly displayed through elaborate jewelry rather than the garments themselves. The basic design of Egyptian clothing was relatively simple and consistent across different social classes, with slight variations in fabric qualities and embellishments.
Whether in fine art, antiques or modern movies, contemporary society is just an enamored with classical fashion as they were thousands of years ago. See what other wonders of the ancient world M.S. Rau has to offer by exploring the collection!
