CANVASES, CARATS AND CURIOSITIES

You may have worn a watch for years, but if you’re not yet a connoisseur, understanding the finer details of its anatomy might be new territory. Join us as we dive into the intricate features that make each timepiece a marvel of design and craftsmanship.

Anatomy of a Watch:

A complication is any function on a watch that goes beyond telling the time. Subdials are a type of complication.

Subdials are the smaller dials that sit on the watch face or dial. These are referred to by their location on the clock face, for example, 3 o’clock, 6 o’clock and 9 o’clock or there may be a complication on the center seconds position if in the middle with the watch hands.

Chronograph Subdials- In the most basic terms, a chronograph is a stopwatch. By pressing the pushers on either side of the watch case, the wearer can activate the chronograph seconds hand or stopwatch functionality. Within Chronograph subdials there are minute subdials, hours subdials and running seconds subdials.

Minute subdials - keep track of the total elapsed minutes timed with the chronograph. Generally measured in units of 30 minutes, although 60-minute subdials do exist. Located at the 3 o’clock position in the image below with a red arrow.

Hours subdials - keep track of the total elapsed hours timed with the chronograph. Generally measured in units of 12 hours or 24 hours. Located at the 3 o’clock position in the image below.

Running seconds subdial - tracks continuous seconds as part of regular timekeeping, equivalent to the central seconds hand on a time-only watch. Measured in units of 60 seconds, it is located at the 9 o’clock position in the image below.

Chronograph hand at the center seconds position- tracks the total elapsed seconds timed by the chronograph when activated. While it is positioned similarly to the central seconds hand on a time-only watch, its purpose is distinct, focusing solely on measuring elapsed time.

Date window - Window on the watch’s dial that indicates the date. Located below at the 4 o’clock position.

Day of the week subdial- A window on the watch’s dial that indicates the day of the week. Located below on the subdial at the 9 o’clock position.

Month indicator - Displays the month, shown below at the 12 o’clock position

Day/night indicator- a watch complication that visually represents whether it's daytime or nighttime. It can feature a dial split in half by yellow and black, a moon and sun or the words day and night to display the progression of day to night. Example below at the 9 o'clock position.

Perpetual calendar- A perpetual calendar watch uses a complex system of gears and levers to automatically adjust and display the correct date, accounting for different month lengths and leap years, making manual date adjustments unnecessary for many years. These watches often have several subdials and windows to indicate the information they are tracking.

Second timezone subdial - a subdial with 12 or 24 hours displayed to keep track of time in a second time zone. Displayed below at the 12 o’clock position in roman numerals.

Power Reserve Indicator subdial- displays the time the watch is powered from fully wound and indicates the amount of power left in the mainspring at any moment. It measures energy as the watch's spring uncoils. Displayed below at the 3 o'clock position.

Moon Phase Subdial - The moon phase subdial features a depiction of the moon through an aperture (or window) that tracks the phase of the moon (i.e. new, waxing, crescent, full, etc.) Can come in many styles but can often be identified by the two half circles or curved earth (as below) which block out parts of the circle moon, revealing the moon phase visually.

Styles

• Dual Functionality
  A chronograph is both a watch and a stopwatch, making it a versatile tool for measuring elapsed time while maintaining accurate timekeeping. Its practicality appeals to enthusiasts who value both form and function.
• Precision Engineering
  Chronograph movements represent the pinnacle of horological craftsmanship. The intricate mechanisms behind the independent sweep second hand and minute subdial reflect the expertise and precision of its maker.
• Iconic Design Elements
  The subdials and pushers add an aesthetic depth to chronographs, offering a distinctive look that blends sophistication with functionality. Their bold design elements often make them collector's favorites.

Integrated Manufacturing
When many or most of the components are produced in-house, the mark of fine watchmakers.

• In-House Craftsmanship: Integrated manufacturing ensures that many or most components are produced in-house, a hallmark of fine watchmaking.
• Quality Control: Creating components internally allows for meticulous oversight at every stage of production, ensuring exceptional quality and reliability.
• Unique Design Identity: In-house production enables the brand to maintain a distinctive aesthetic and technical innovation exclusive to its timepieces.
• Horological Expertise: Integrated manufacturing reflects the watchmaker’s mastery of complex techniques, from movement assembly to case construction.

Exhibition Caseback
This is a clear back side (called a caseback) that displays the inner workings of the watch movement.

• Showcases Craftsmanship: An exhibition caseback reveals the intricate details of the movement, highlighting the watchmaker's skill and artistry.
• Connection to Horological Mastery: Viewing the inner workings fosters appreciation for the precision engineering behind the timepiece.
• Aesthetic Appeal: The visible movement, often embellished with fine finishing techniques, adds a layer of visual sophistication.
• Transparency and Authenticity: An open caseback offers reassurance of the watch's mechanical quality and authenticity.
• Conversation Starter: The detailed mechanics on display often serve as a point of interest for collectors and enthusiasts.
• Educational Insight: Observing the movement in action provides an engaging way to learn about the watch's functionality and design.

• Enhanced Protection: The screw-back case ensures a tight seal, safeguarding the watch's battery and internal components from dust, dirt, and potential damage.
• Improved Water Resistance: This feature contributes to superior water resistance, making the watch more suitable for daily wear and outdoor activities.

Open lunette window
Allows a view of the movement on the dial.

• Showcases Craftsmanship: The open lunette window provides a view of the intricate movement, highlighting the precision and artistry behind the watch's mechanism.
• Dynamic Timekeeping: The visible movement brings the watch to life, creating a dynamic interplay of gears and components that enhances the user experience.
• Collector Appeal: Open lunette designs are highly sought after by watch enthusiasts, adding desirability and prestige.

Shaped Cases
Many watches have interesting an unusual case shapes, such as this Hermes watch in a classic H shape for Hermes.

Why buy:

• Statement of Style: Unusual case shapes are visually striking and convey a sophisticated, personalized sense of fashion.
• Brand Identity: Shaped cases often embody the heritage and identity of a luxury brand, making the watch an emblem of its legacy.
• Collector's Appeal: Watches with distinctive cases tend to hold special interest for collectors due to their rarity and innovative design.

Guilloché Decoration (engine turned)
A type of decoration, which is usually done on a watch dial or a case/caseback with the help of an engraving technique. It is achieved through a repetitive pattern in which the design is created using precise intricate patterns with wonderful details. Also known as engine turning, the guilloche pattern is the art that uses a special machine called a rose engine or geometric lathes.

Why buy:

• Exquisite Craftsmanship: Guilloché showcases the highest level of artistry and precision, with intricate, repetitive patterns that elevate the watch's design.
• Heritage of Watchmaking: Guilloché represents a centuries-old engraving tradition, connecting the watch to the rich history of fine horology.
• Collector's Appeal: Timepieces featuring genuine guilloché, achieved using specialized rose engines or geometric lathes, are prized for their rarity and craftsmanship.

Deployant clasp
A buckle replacement that can help extend the life of the strap by setting your desired adjustment once, rather than pulling through a buckle to adjust each time

Why buy:

• Preserves Strap Longevity: By eliminating the need to repeatedly pull the strap through a traditional buckle, a deployant clasp reduces wear and tear, extending the strap's life.
• Enhanced Convenience: The clasp allows you to set your desired adjustment once, providing a consistent fit without the need for frequent re-adjustments.
• Sophisticated Aesthetic: This feature offers a polished and professional look, complementing the elegance of a fine timepiece.
• Enhanced Comfort: The design eliminates excessive tugging and pulling, ensuring a snug yet gentle fit on the wrist.

Tang Buckle
Classic buckles with a metal loop and pin

Why buy:

• Timeless Design: The tang buckle embodies a classic and universally recognized style, reflecting simplicity and traditional elegance.
• Reliable Durability: The sturdy metal loop and pin design provide dependable security, holding the strap firmly in place during wear.
• Lightweight Comfort: Compared to bulkier clasp systems, tang buckles are lightweight, enhancing the overall comfort of the watch on the wrist.

Exploded numerals
Numerals that appear to burst outward or expand from their usual position. This design technique is often used to enhance the visual appeal of the watch dial, adding depth and dimensionality.

Why buy:

• Dynamic Aesthetic: Exploded numerals create a sense of movement and energy, adding a striking visual appeal to the watch dial.
• Contemporary Elegance: Exploded numerals bridge modern artistry with classic horology, offering a blend of tradition and innovation.
• Collector's Appeal: Watches with exploded numerals are often seen as bold design statements, appealing to enthusiasts who value creativity and craftsmanship.

Blued Hands
The process was originally developed as a means of preventing rust, as the blueing process creates a thin layer of magnetite on the surface of the steel, which serves as a barrier against corrosion.

Why buy:

• Corrosion Resistance: The blueing process forms a protective magnetite layer, safeguarding the steel hands against rust and ensuring longevity.
• Unique Visual Contrast: Blued hands provide a striking contrast against the watch dial, improving legibility and making the timepiece visually distinctive.
• Collector's Appeal: The presence of blued hands signifies meticulous craftsmanship, making the watch highly desirable among connoisseurs.

Root beer
A nickname for a Rolex with warm colors of brown and black on its dial.

Why buy:

• Collector's Desirability: The "Root Beer" palette is highly sought after among collectors, making it a prized addition to any collection.
• Versatile Style: The earthy and elegant hues complement a variety of outfits, transitioning effortlessly between casual and formal settings.
• Heritage and Prestige: Watches featuring this design are often linked to iconic models.

Dive watch or Diver’s watch
Diver's watches are water-resistant to significant depths, usually marked in meters or feet. The minimum water resistance rating for a true diver's watch is typically 100 meters (330 feet), but many models offer even higher levels of water resistance, often up to 200 meters (660 feet) or more.

Why buy:

• Exceptional Water Resistance: Designed for underwater use, dive watches typically offer water resistance of 100 meters (330 feet) or more, with many models capable of 200 meters (660 feet) or greater.
• Unmatched Functionality: Features like unidirectional bezels and luminescent markers enhance underwater visibility and precision, making them indispensable for divers.
• Versatile Style: With their rugged yet refined design, dive watches transition seamlessly from aquatic adventures to everyday wear.

Panda dial
A white dial usually accompanied by three black subdials, representing a set of eyes and a nose.

Why buy?

• Iconic Aesthetic: The striking contrast of a white dial with black sub-dials evokes the charm of a panda, creating a timeless and recognizable design.
• Collector’s Appeal: As one of the most sought-after dial styles, the panda design holds significant value and desirability among watch enthusiasts.
• Enhanced Readability: The bold black sub-dials against a white background improve legibility, ensuring precision in reading the watch functions.