What is an intaglio?
Intaglio gemstones are an art form that combines the beauty of natural gemstones with intricate craftsmanship. Each intaglio is a skillfully carved jewel, with decorative motifs and patterns etched into the surface of the gemstone that create a captivating tactile experience.
Intaglio Techniques
The process of carving an intaglio gemstone is a testament to the precision and skill required by artisans to transform a rare colored gemstone into a work of wearable art. Each stone begins its journey as a rough gem, carefully selected for its durability. After shaping the natural gem, skilled lapidaries, equipped with a keen eye for detail, study the stone before incising and cutting its surface. Working in harmony with the gemstone’s inherent qualities, the artisan brings the precious stones to life with added depth and dimension. The result is a durable and alluring piece of wearable art.History of Intaglios & Their Lasting Influence
The art of intaglio dates to as early as the 14th century BCE and was practiced by ancient civilizations in Mesopotamia, Assyria, Phoenicia and later in Greece and Rome. Gemstone intaglios were among the most popular jewelry designs in ancient Rome, as Roman men of social standing commonly used intaglios to mark wax seals to secure their important papyrus documents or clay tablets.
In the medieval period, carved gemstones found a new function. The famed Cross of Lothair, created in Germany at the turn of the 10th century, incorporates a variety of precious materials, from the laborious enameling techniques of cloisonné to skillfully smithed gold, as well as an abundance of intaglio gems. Gleaming emeralds, fiery rubies and shimmering sapphires form a harmonious symphony of color, meticulously selected to enhance the divine splendor of the cross. Each gemstone, expertly cut and polished — and many, carved — captures the light, casting resplendent hues onto the intricate gold filigree that envelops them. Combining both ancient and contemporary intaglios of the Middle Ages, the objet d’art serves as an expression of the devotion, piety and power of its original owner, the Carolingian King Lothair.
Intaglios found popularity once more in Victorian era jewelry. The age derives its name from the reign of the English monarch Victoria, who sat on the throne from 1837 until her death in 1901. Her reign brought with it a new period of progress, a rising middle class and one of the great love stories of the ages, that between the Queen herself and her husband, Prince Albert. The romanticism of the age along with the redistribution of wealth led to a surge in the jewelry trade, and these pieces truly epitomize the "Romantic age" in which they were born. Jewelers married whimsical, buoyant designs to traditional motifs, resulting in Victorian jewelry pieces that exude charm and luxury. During this period, interest in archaeological discoveries of the Classical world reached a zenith, and ancient Roman intaglios offered a timeless allure to a new generation of collectors and jewelry lovers.
The Victorian fascination with ancient Roman intaglios was not limited to their aesthetic appeal; it extended to their symbolic significance and historical context. Each gem carving from the Roman Empire told a story, depicting scenes from mythology, legendary heroes, or potent symbols of power and virtue. Victorian collectors sought to acquire intaglios not only for their beauty but also to connect with the past, to forge a tangible link to the grandeur of antiquity.
The necklace above is an excellent example of the incorporation of ancient intaglios in a more modern setting. It includes ancient intaglios carved from a variety of gemstones, including carnelian, agate, jasper, chrome chalcedony and nicolo, a form of blue onyx. Classical in style, the intaglios feature everything from portraits and mythological figures to animals and classical vases. The largest portrait depicts the second Roman Emperor Tiberius, and was carved in the 18th century, while every other intaglio dates to the Roman period. The gold setting dates to the 19th century as well. In other words, Victorian lapidaries and jewelry makers did not just set ancient and recently uncovered Roman intaglios into their jewelry; they mimicked the classical craftsmanship themselves, carving new intaglios to match the ancient discoveries.
Intaglios vs Cameos
Cameos and intaglios are both forms of engraved gemstones, but there is an important distinction between the two. Intaglio gemstones feature so-called “negative” carving — where the design is composed of the negative space where the gem’s material was carefully excised, creating a recessed image. Alternatively, cameos — like that of Emperor Augustus above — are engraved to produce a raised relief image. Because of the way they are created, cameos are often carved of stones with bands of color to create contrast between the layers. This color banding is often unnecessary in intaglio carving.
Returning to the Lothair Cross, a large cameo intended to represent Carolingian ruler Lothair II lies at the intersection of the cross’s arms. Interestingly, the cameo dates to the Roman period, and pictures Emperor Augustus with his signature laurel crown and eagle staff — not Lothair II. Whether or not the Carolingians knew whom the cameo depicted, it served to definitively outwardly link Lothair’s power to the prestige of the Classical age’s greatest rulers.
Much like their intaglio counterparts, cameo jewelry reached its apex of popularity during the Victorian period. Each cameo in the suite above, created during the 19th century, displays the visage of a classical maiden in profile, adorned with floral blooms, laurel leaves and grapevines. Imitating Classical cameos of antiquity, the figure in the bracelet represents Euterpe, the mythological muse of music, and the brooch depicts Demeter, the Greek goddess of agriculture and the harvest.
Interested in exploring more intaglio and cameo jewelry? Check our collection of fine jewelry, or explore our selection of rare art and antiques.
