Costume Oriental by Erté

Erté (Romain de Tirtoff)
1892-1990 | Russian-French

Costume Oriental

Signed “Erté”(lower right)
Inscribed "No. 19" (en verso)
Gouache on paper

Titled Costume Oriental, this ensemble epitomizes Erté's signature fusion of Eastern and Western aesthetic elements. The attire features grey pantaloons enveloped by a vivid red skirt adorned with intricate white Orientalist motifs. The bodice, a geometric tapestry of black and white stripes, is composed of narrow horizontal black bands juxtaposed with glittering gemstones. This visual harmony is accentuated by a trio of diamond shapes vertically aligned on the chest. The crowning element is a gem-encrusted turban, surmounted by three red fan shapes, lending the headpiece the appearance of a striking medallion.

This sartorial masterpiece is an authentic Erté creation for the 1926 rendition of George White's Scandals, staged at the Heilig Theatre in Portland, Oregon. The revue initially debuted at the Apollo Theatre in New York City on June 30, 1924, enjoying a run of 196 performances before embarking on a tour. Orchestrated by George White from 1919 to 1939, the Scandals series distinguished itself through its timely comedy and exceptional choreography, a testament to White's expertise as a dancer. In contrast to the more lavish Ziegfeld Follies,Scandals offered a streamlined yet sophisticated experience. The Sixth Edition was particularly remarkable for its artistic collaborations: Erté designed the scenery and curtains, while George Gershwin composed the musical score, which included the classic "Somebody Loves Me." The production featured an ensemble of notable performers, including Nyra Brown and the Leeland Sisters.

The artist, Russian-French visionary Romain de Tirtoff (1892-1990), popularly known as Erté, began his artistic journey in the culturally rich city of St. Petersburg, where he developed an early fondness for ballet and theatrical performances. He moved to Paris in 1912 to study architecture, and quickly found his creative niche in crafting fantastical costumes for the city’s bustling nightlife. Erté‘s expertise, refined under the guidance of the famed Paul Poiret, captured the attention of Harper’s Bazaar, marking the beginning of a significant partnership that spanned from 1915 to 1936. The artist also designed sets for notable cinematic masterpieces including Ben Hur and La Bohème, and created sets and costumes for cabarets, operas and other performances at the Folies-Bergères, Bal Tabarin, the Théâtre du Bataclan and Le Casino de Paris. Often remembered as the “Father of Art Deco,” Erté was a trailblazer whose colorful creations shaped the groundbreaking Art Deco era more than any other, leaving an indelible mark on the history of art and design. His artworks reside in prestigious museum collections worldwide, including the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, the Victoria & Albert Museum in London and the Los Angeles County Museum of Art. 

Painted 1926

Paper: 12“ high x 9 wide
Frame: 19 1/4“ high x 16 1/8” wide x 5/8" deep

Exhibitions:
M.S. Rau, New Orleans, Erté and the Era of Art Deco, October 14, 2023 - January 3, 2024

Provenance:
Private collection, Paris
Christie's South Kensington: Sale, 2014
  Bouret Gonzalez Collection
Sydney and Sibyl Colefax & John Fowler
Private Collection, Paris
  M.S. Rau, New Orleans