Dame d'honneur de la princesse by Erté

Erté (Romain de Tirtoff)
1892-1990 | Russian-French

Dame d'Honneur de la princesse
(Maid of Honor to the Princess)

Inscribed “n°1.529” (en verso)
Gouache on paper

This costume design entitled Dame d'Honneur de la princesse was created by Erté for a 1929 production of Aladin at the Folies Bergère, drawing rich inspiration from the mesmerizing tales of the Arabian Nights. Premiered at the illustrious Folies Bergère, this endeavor beautifully married Erté's distinctive artistic flair with the mystique of Eastern narratives, as celebrated in literature and theater. This exquisite gouache on paper showcases a standout costume titled Dame d'Honneur de la princess, translating to Maid of Honor to the princess. 

The princess's maid of honor, elegantly attired in a radiant gold and blue gown, is enhanced by a flowing cape and a bodice showcasing a lattice design. Her graceful visage is crowned with a distinctive headpiece. Melding Orientalist motifs with hallmark Art Deco detailing, this masterpiece by the esteemed “Father of Art Deco” is a shining example of Erté's unmatched artistry.

Thanks to the breadth of the artist’s cultural experiences in his youth, Erté’s visionary Art Deco style looked to both the glory of the ancient world and the allure of Eastern artistic traditions. Erté melded the iconic motifs of ancient Greece and Rome with modern sensuality and style in his costuming and set design, particularly for the performances of ancient tales like Helen of Sparta and Hercules. The artist also prominently showcased Asian-inspired designs and a growing appreciation for non-Western aesthetics. The allure of the so-called "Orient" found resonance within the geometric precision emblematic of the Art Deco style, as stories like Aladin were reinterpreted for French audiences.

Russian-French visionary Romain de Tirtoff (1892-1990), popularly known as Erté, began his artistic journey in the culturally rich city of St. Petersburg, where he developed an early fondness for ballet and theatrical performances. He moved to Paris in 1912 to study architecture, and quickly found his creative niche in crafting fantastical costumes for the city’s bustling nightlife. Erté‘s expertise, refined under the guidance of the famed Paul Poiret, captured the attention of Harper’s Bazaar, marking the beginning of a significant partnership that spanned from 1915 to 1936. The artist also designed sets for notable cinematic masterpieces including Ben Hur and La Bohème, and created sets and costumes for cabarets, operas and other performances at the Folies-Bergères, Bal Tabarin, the Théâtre du Bataclan and Le Casino de Paris. Often remembered as the “Father of Art Deco,” Erté was a trailblazer whose colorful creations shaped the groundbreaking Art Deco era more than any other, leaving an indelible mark on the history of art and design. His artworks reside in prestigious museum collections worldwide, including the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, the Victoria & Albert Museum in London and the Los Angeles County Museum of Art. 

Painted 1929

Paper: 11 3/4“ high x 9” wide
Frame: 17 1/4“ high x 14” wide x 5/8" deep

Provenance:
Private collection, Paris
M.S. Rau, New Orleans