Le Roi de Pique by Erté

Erté (Romain de Tirtoff)
1892-1990 | Russian-French

Le Roi de Pique
(King of Spades)

Signed “Erté” (lower right)
Gouache on paper

Designed for the beloved opera La Traviata, this beautiful ensemble for the personified King of Hearts showcases Erté’s eye for design into his opera costumes. Erté served as designer for two renditions of La Traviata, an opera in three acts by Giuseppe Verdi that first premiered in 1853 and remained a staple in the European operatic repertoire. Given the era’s burgeoning modernism and political upheaval, the opera’s narrative of love, sacrifice and societal conventions resonated differently, offering solace and escapism.

This costume encapsulates an important symbol in Verdi’s famed opera. In Act II, during a gambling scene, the character of Baron Douphol draws attention to Le Roi de Pique in a game of cards. It becomes a catalyst for heated exchange between the protagonists, serving as as a visual emblem of their ill-fated love affair’s destiny. Erté melds traditional playing card imagery with modern stylized forms to fashion the costume.

The alliance between Erté and the vibrant performing arts scene of Paris transported audiences to new heights throughout the early 20th century. Erté emerged as an unmatched and emblematic creative force whose visionary designs were imbued with an otherworldly appeal. His mesmerizing costume and set designs left an indelible imprint on operatic and theater productions of the period.

Russian-French visionary Romain de Tirtoff (1892-1990), popularly known as Erté, began his artistic journey in the culturally rich city of St. Petersburg, where he developed an early fondness for ballet and theatrical performances. He moved to Paris in 1912 to study architecture, and quickly found his creative niche in crafting fantastical costumes for the city’s bustling nightlife. Erté‘s expertise, refined under the guidance of the famed Paul Poiret, captured the attention of Harper’s Bazaar, marking the beginning of a significant partnership that spanned from 1915 to 1936. The artist also designed sets for notable cinematic masterpieces including Ben Hur and La Bohème, and created sets and costumes for cabarets, operas and other performances at the Folies-Bergères, Bal Tabarin, the Théâtre du Bataclan and Le Casino de Paris. Erté was a trailblazer whose colorful creations shaped the groundbreaking Art Deco era more than any other, leaving an indelible mark on the history of art and design. His artworks reside in prestigious museum collections worldwide, including the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, the Victoria & Albert Museum in London and the Los Angeles County Museum of Art.

Painted 1948

Paper: 14 3/8" high x 10 3/8" wide
Frame: 20 3/4" high x 16 7/8" wide x 5/8" deep

Provenance:
Private collection, Paris
M.S. Rau, New Orleans

Exhibitions:
M.S. Rau, New Orleans, Erté and the Era of Art Deco, October 14, 2023 - January 3, 2024