Les fleurs du mal by Erté

Erté (Romain de Tirtoff)
1892-1990 | Russian-French

Fleurs du Mal (The Flowers of Evil)

Signed “Erté” (lower right)
Inscribed 114.6 (en verso)
Gouache on paper

Captivating and vibrant, this colorful gouache entitled Fleurs du Mal showcases Erté’s masterful creativity and keen eye. Inspired by Les Fleurs du mal, the famed volume of poems by French writer Charles Baudelaire, this ensemble marries light purple and green floral motifs with the suggestive form of red lips poised for a smooch. This daring yet feminine appearance encapsulates the Art Deco allure for which the artist's creations are cherished. The sophisticated arrangement emanates the fundamental richness and theatricality that can only be accomplished by Erté, often hailed as the "Father of Art Deco."

First published in 1857, Baudelaire’s Les Fleurs du mal was controversial for its suggestive content and themes of decadence and eroticism. The volume provided a wealth of inspiration for Erté and he drew from several themes to create original fashion sketches and designs. A celebration of the graceful female form, Erté ingeniously designs the garment to make the woman's rising torso appear to “blossom” from the parting red lips bustling from her hips. The design is delicate yet erotic, harkening to the themes of Baudelaire's “Flowers of Evil.” Creative and bold, Erté’s artistic interpretations of Baudelaire’s words showcase his clever imagination and sophisticated point of view.

Russian-French visionary Romain de Tirtoff (1892-1990), popularly known as Erté, began his artistic journey in the culturally rich city of St. Petersburg, where he developed an early fondness for ballet and theatrical performances. He moved to Paris in 1912 to study architecture, and quickly found his creative niche in crafting fantastical costumes for the city’s bustling nightlife. Erté‘s expertise, refined under the guidance of the famed Paul Poiret, captured the attention of Harper’s Bazaar, marking the beginning of a significant partnership that spanned from 1915 to 1936. The artist also designed sets for notable cinematic masterpieces including Ben Hur and La Bohème, and created sets and costumes for cabarets, operas and other performances at the Folies-Bergères, Bal Tabarin, the Théâtre du Bataclan and Le Casino de Paris. Often remembered as the “Father of Art Deco,” Erté was a trailblazer whose colorful creations shaped the groundbreaking Art Deco era more than any other, leaving an indelible mark on the history of art and design. His artworks reside in prestigious museum collections worldwide, including the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, the Victoria & Albert Museum in London and the Los Angeles County Museum of Art. 

Circa 1940

Paper: 14” high by 10 1/2” wide
Frame: 20 3/4” high by 16 7/8” wide by 3/4" deep

Exhibitions:
M.S. Rau, New Orleans, Erté and the Era of Art Deco, October 14, 2023 - January 3, 2024

Provenance:
Millon & Associés
Private collection, Paris
M.S. Rau, New Orleans