Les souris by Erté

Erté (Romain de Tirtoff)
1892-1990 | Russian-French

Les souris
(The Mice)

Signed “Erté” (lower right)
Inscribed "No. 15.931" (en verso)
Gouache on paper

Erté adds a touch of his trademark whimsy to this alluring costume entitled Les souris. The model dons a headpiece with mouse ears while her fingers, sporting vibrant red polish that matches her jewels, remain stuck in a mousetrap. Her seductive mesh catsuit showcases scurrying mice, formed of glittering diamonds and crimson gemstones. Housed in the personal collection of Hélène Martini for years, the design showcases Erté’s more humorous artistic visions.

The nightlife of the Art Deco period was a bold expression of the times, synthesizing time-honored entertainment traditions with a new modernist spirit in a dazzling dance of light, sound and movement. Paris’ cabarets, particularly in the Montmartre and Montparnasse districts, hosted spirited performances, with establishments like the Folies Bergère and the Bal Tabarin setting global standards for entertainment. The city’s vibrant cultural scene also provided an ideal backdrop for the popularization of jazz music, which quickly became the soundtrack of the era. Erté worked with many of the city’s premier entertainment venues, and his striking visuals—full of bold patterns, vibrant colors and otherworldly designs—came to define the modernity of the city.

Russian-French visionary Romain de Tirtoff (1892-1990), popularly known as Erté, began his artistic journey in the culturally rich city of St. Petersburg, where he developed an early fondness for ballet and theatrical performances. He moved to Paris in 1912 to study architecture, and quickly found his creative niche in crafting fantastical costumes for the city’s bustling nightlife. Erté‘s expertise, refined under the guidance of the famed Paul Poiret, captured the attention of Harper’s Bazaar, marking the beginning of a significant partnership that spanned from 1915 to 1936. The artist also designed sets for notable cinematic masterpieces including Ben Hur and La Bohème, and created sets and costumes for cabarets, operas and other performances at the Folies-Bergères, Bal Tabarin, the Théâtre du Bataclan and Le Casino de Paris. Often remembered as the “Father of Art Deco,” Erté was a trailblazer whose colorful creations shaped the groundbreaking Art Deco era more than any other, leaving an indelible mark on the history of art and design. His artworks reside in prestigious museum collections worldwide, including the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, the Victoria & Albert Museum in London and the Los Angeles County Museum of Art. 

Circa 1959

Paper: 14 1/2" high x 10 1/2" wide
Frame: 20 3/4" high x 16 7/8" wide x 5/8" deep

Exhibitions:
M.S. Rau, New Orleans, Erté and the Era of Art Deco, October 14, 2023 - January 3, 2024

Provenance:
Private collection of Hélène Martini
Private collection, Paris
M.S. Rau, New Orleans