Princesse by Erté

Erté (Romain de Tirtoff)
1892-1990 | Russian-French

Princesse

Inscribed “Aladin / Princesse / n°1.509” (en verso)
Gouache on paper

Erté embarked on a project to design the stage and costumes for a production Aladin, reinterpreting tales from the iconic Arabian Nights for the Parisian stage. Performed at the famed Folies Bergère in 1929, this production marked a convergence of Erté's vision with Eastern artistic influences. Entitled Princesse, this costume design features a figure draped in a majestic light blue dress, adorned with shimmering white gemstones and highlighted with gold fabric tufts in the skirt. The bodice, with its sheer netting and cascading gem tassels, exudes an enticing and sensual allure. The princess' towering hairpiece, embellished with spiraling golden designs, adds a final opulent touch. This portrayal of an archetypal Eastern princess is a testament the Orientalist fascinations of Erté, the oft-called "Father of Art Deco."

Paris witnessed a remarkable cultural synthesis during the Art Deco period, and Orientalism played a significant role in shaping the city's artistic and intellectual milieu. At the same 1925 Paris Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes, often considered the naissance of the Art Deco style, many artisans prominently showcased Eastern-inspired designs and a growing appreciation for non-Western aesthetics. Productions like Aladin melded Orientalist aesthetics into Paris' artistic output in a new way. 

Russian-French visionary Romain de Tirtoff (1892-1990), popularly known as Erté, began his artistic journey in the culturally rich city of St. Petersburg, where he developed an early fondness for ballet and theatrical performances. He moved to Paris in 1912 to study architecture, and quickly found his creative niche in crafting fantastical costumes for the city’s bustling nightlife. Erté‘s expertise, refined under the guidance of the famed Paul Poiret, captured the attention of Harper’s Bazaar, marking the beginning of a significant partnership that spanned from 1915 to 1936. The artist also designed sets for notable cinematic masterpieces including Ben Hur and La Bohème, and created sets and costumes for cabarets, operas and other performances at the Folies-Bergères, Bal Tabarin, the Théâtre du Bataclan and Le Casino de Paris. Often remembered as the “Father of Art Deco,” Erté was a trailblazer whose colorful creations shaped the groundbreaking Art Deco era more than any other, leaving an indelible mark on the history of art and design. His artworks reside in prestigious museum collections worldwide, including the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, the Victoria & Albert Museum in London and the Los Angeles County Museum of Art. 

Painted 1929

Paper: 13“ high x 9 1/2” wide
Frame: 20 3/4“ high x 16 7/8” wide x 3/4" deep

Provenance:
Private collection, Paris
M.S. Rau, New Orleans

Exhibitions:
M.S. Rau, New Orleans, Erté and the Era of Art Deco, October 14, 2023 - January 3, 2024