Sonia by Erté

Erté (Romain de Tirtoff)
1892-1990 | Russian-French

Sonia

Signed “Erté”(lower right)
Inscribed "No. 5439" (en verso)
Gouache on paper

This captivating gouache on paper of a figure dressed in a striking blue gown and sumptuous jewels bears the title Myla. Erté likely designed this costume for a performance of the iconic 1912 French song Une femme aux bijoux, or "The Woman with Jewelry." Crafted by the collaborative efforts of Bénech and Dumont, the waltz achieved enduring acclaim in romantic settings across both French and English-speaking cultures. Erté's design for the full-length, high-collared dress radiates vivid shades of blue echoing sapphires and aquamarines, and adds a hint of sensuality with an open torso adorned with jeweled embellishments. The model's hands are highlighted by cerulean blue gloves, harmoniously complementing her striking fan-shaped collar and dramatic eye makeup.

Paris emerged as a beacon of hope and rejuvenation following the upheaval of the First World War. The city attracted innumerable international figures, from Ernest Hemingway and Pablo Picasso to Gertrude Stein, each drawn to Paris for its artistic vitality. Parisian high society flocked to opulent parties and balls, with the city’s elite showcasing the latest haute couture creations. Erté’s sartorial masterpieces found acclaim among many fashionistas and socialites, who often viewed his designs in publications such as Harper’s Bazaar and Femina.

Russian-French visionary Romain de Tirtoff (1892-1990), popularly known as Erté, began his artistic journey in the culturally rich city of St. Petersburg, where he developed an early fondness for ballet and theatrical performances. He moved to Paris in 1912 to study architecture, and quickly found his creative niche in crafting fantastical costumes for the city’s bustling nightlife. Erté‘s expertise, refined under the guidance of the famed Paul Poiret, captured the attention of Harper’s Bazaar, marking the beginning of a significant partnership that spanned from 1915 to 1936. The artist also designed sets for notable cinematic masterpieces including Ben Hur and La Bohème, and created sets and costumes for cabarets, operas and other performances at the Folies-Bergères, Bal Tabarin, the Théâtre du Bataclan and Le Casino de Paris. Erté was a trailblazer whose colorful creations shaped the groundbreaking Art Deco era more than any other, leaving an indelible mark on the history of art and design. His artworks reside in prestigious museum collections worldwide, including the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, the Victoria & Albert Museum in London and the Los Angeles County Museum of Art.

Painted 1940

Paper: 14 1/2” high by 10” wide
Frame: 20 3/4” high by 16 7/8” wide by 5/8" deep

Exhibitions:
M.S. Rau, New Orleans, Erté and the Era of Art Deco, October 14, 2023 - January 3, 2024

Provenance:
Private collection, Paris
M.S. Rau, New Orleans