CANVASES, CARATS AND CURIOSITIES

Initially, Wilsdorf and Davis imported Hermann Aegler's Swiss movements and placed them in cases made by Dennison and others. These early timepieces were sold to jewelers who would add their own names to the dials, with early watches hallmarked "W&D" inside the caseback.

The name "Rolex" was registered as a trademark in 1908. Wilsdorf sought a name that would be easily pronounceable in any language and short enough to fit elegantly on a watch face. According to Hans Wilsdorf, the name "Rolex" came to him while riding on a London omnibus. As he tells it, a mysterious voice whispered the name into his ear. The name was phonetically pleasing and reminiscent of the sound of a watch being wound.

By 1919, post-war taxes and export duties prompted Wilsdorf to relocate the company to Geneva, Switzerland, officially changing the name to Montres Rolex SA in 1919 and then to Rolex SA in 1920.

A watershed moment in watchmaking occurred in 1926 when Rolex introduced the Oyster, the world's first waterproof and dustproof wristwatch. The Oyster featured a hermetically sealed case that provided optimal protection for the movement. To demonstrate this revolutionary capability, Rolex displayed submerged Oyster models in aquariums at their main retail locations.

The waterproof claim was dramatically validated in 1927 when British swimmer Mercedes Gleitze wore an Oyster on her necklace during her swim across the English Channel. This event not only demonstrated the watch's technical prowess but also marked Gleitze as the first Rolex ambassador, establishing a tradition of aligning with exceptional individuals that continues to this day.

The Perpetual Revolution

Rolex's innovation continued in 1931 with the patenting of the Perpetual rotor, a self-winding mechanism that relies on gravity to move freely. This invention transformed the industry, as timepieces could now be wound through the natural movement of the wearer's wrist. The Oyster watch became known as the Oyster Perpetual, combining robust water resistance with self-winding functionality.

The introduction of the Perpetual movement was revolutionary because it eliminated the need for manual winding. The movement uses a weighted rotor that rotates with the motion of the wearer's arm, continuously winding the mainspring and ensuring consistent power to the watch. This innovation epitomized the brand's commitment to both practicality and precision.

In 1945, Rolex introduced the Oyster Perpetual Datejust, featuring an automatic date change function. This model set a new standard for functional elegance and would become one of the brand's signature offerings.

The combination of the waterproof Oyster case and the self-winding Perpetual movement created the foundation upon which Rolex would build its reputation for reliability and innovation. These technological advancements ensured that Rolex timepieces could function flawlessly in virtually any environment.

Professional Models: Tools for Specialists

The origins of the modern tool watch are hotly debated among collectors, with some citing early chronographs or WWII-era Flieger models. However, many credit Rolex with pioneering the modern tool watch in the 1950s and '60s, creating durable, purpose-built timepieces for land, sea and air.

By the late '60s these rugged watches began evolving into luxury status symbols.

The Rolex Explorer

The Rolex Explorer has its origins at the summit of Mount Everest. When Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay made their historic ascent in 1953, they wore Rolex Oyster Perpetuals. Following this triumph, Rolex introduced the Explorer model to celebrate their achievement.

Characterized by its highly legible 3/6/9 dial, the Explorer represents the essence of functional elegance. Until recently available exclusively in stainless steel, it has maintained a reputation for understated sophistication and robust performance. The Explorer stands as a testament to human achievement and Rolex's role in facilitating it.

The Rolex Submariner

Perhaps the most recognizable Rolex watch ever created, the Submariner debuted in 1954 as the first timepiece waterproof to a depth of 100 meters. Developed during the post-war boom in recreational scuba diving, the Submariner featured a rotating bezel that allowed divers to track elapsed time underwater.

The Submariner's distinctive design elements, including its luminous dial markers and hands for underwater visibility, have made it an enduring icon. Its appeal transcended its utilitarian origins when it appeared on the wrist of James Bond, cementing its status in popular culture.

With time, the collection expanded to include both date display and no-date variants, with materials ranging from stainless steel to precious metals. Each iteration maintains the fundamental design language that has made the Submariner instantly recognizable across generations.

The Rolex GMT-Master

Developed in collaboration with Pan American Airways in the 1950s, the GMT-Master addressed the needs of pilots traversing multiple time zones. Its signature feature—a 24-hour rotating bezel with distinctive color combinations—allowed travelers to track a second time zone with ease.

The iconic blue and red bezel of the original model earned it the nickname "Pepsi," initiating a tradition of colorful monikers for various GMT-Master versions. The timepiece became a symbol of the jet age and global connectivity, worn by pilots and frequent travelers alike.

The GMT-Master's sophisticated functionality and striking aesthetics have made it one of Rolex's most coveted models, with variations like the "Batman" (black and blue bezel) and "Root Beer" (brown and gold bezel) generating significant enthusiasm among collectors.

The Rolex Daytona

Introduced in 1963, the Cosmograph Daytona was designed for professional race car drivers. Named after the famous Daytona racetrack in Florida, this chronograph features a tachymetric scale on its bezel for measuring average speeds.
Initially underappreciated by the market, the Daytona's fortunes changed dramatically when actor and racing enthusiast Paul Newman was frequently photographed wearing his Reference 6239, gifted to him by his wife Joanne Woodward with the inscription "Drive Carefully Me" on the caseback.

In 2017, Newman's personal Daytona, which he had gifted to his daughter's lucky boyfriend, sold at auction for a record-breaking $17.8 million, cementing its status as one of the most collectible timepieces in history. Today, the Daytona represents the pinnacle of Rolex sport watches, with demand consistently exceeding supply.

The Rolex Sea-Dweller

When the Sea-Dweller arrived in 1967, it pushed the boundaries of dive watch capabilities. Designed for professional deep-sea divers, it featured a helium escape valve to address the challenges faced during saturation diving. This innovative solution allowed helium molecules that had penetrated the watch case to safely escape during decompression, preventing damage to the timepiece.

Originally rated to a depth of 2,000 feet, the Sea-Dweller's water resistance was later doubled to 4,000 feet with the introduction of the reference 16660. The Sea-Dweller represents Rolex's commitment to pushing the boundaries of what a mechanical watch can withstand. In 2008, Rolex once again pushed the boundaries of exploration with the release of the Rolex Deepsea, a timepiece water-resistant to an astonishing depth of 12,800 feet.

The Rolex Explorer II

Introduced in 1971, the Explorer II was created for spelunkers and polar explorers who might lose track of day and night cycles in extreme environments. Its fixed 24-hour bezel and additional hand allowed these adventurers to distinguish between AM and PM hours.

With its distinctive orange 24-hour hand and functional aesthetic, the Explorer II has maintained its purposeful design throughout its history. Initially considered a niche offering, it has gained appreciation among collectors who value its technical capabilities and connection to exploration.

The Rolex Milgauss

Released in 1956, the Milgauss was engineered for scientists and engineers working in environments with strong electromagnetic fields. Its name derives from "mille" (thousand) and "gauss" (the unit of magnetic flux density), as it could withstand magnetic fields up to 1,000 gauss without losing accuracy.

The Milgauss achieves this resistance through a protective inner shield made of ferromagnetic alloys. Though discontinued in 1988, it was reintroduced in 2007 with modern updates, including the distinctive lightning bolt-shaped seconds hand that has become its signature feature.

Investment Value and Market Position

Rolex timepieces are renowned not only for their technical excellence but also for their investment potential. Several factors contribute to their status as desirable assets.

First, Rolex maintains strict control over production, creating natural scarcity for many models. This controlled supply, coupled with consistent global demand, often results in timepieces that maintain or appreciate in value, particularly for stainless steel sports models.

The brand's commitment to gradual evolution rather than radical redesign ensures that Rolex watches remain recognizable and desirable across generations. This continuity in design language contributes to their enduring appeal. In times of economic uncertainty, tangible assets like Rolex watches can serve as a hedge against inflation. Their international recognition and strong demand in the secondary market help ensure they retain value.

The prestige associated with wearing a Rolex continues to drive demand across diverse markets.

Collector's Guide

For serious collectors, Rolex timepieces from the 1950s through the 1970s represent the golden age of the brand's watchmaking. During this period, Rolex introduced many of its most iconic models, establishing design codes that continue to influence contemporary offerings.

The five-digit reference models from the 1980s and 1990s—featuring improvements like sapphire crystals and non-radioactive luminous materials—offer an attractive middle ground between vintage aestetics and modern reliability.

Contemporary Rolex watches benefit from advances in materials science and precision manufacturing while maintaining the essence of their historical predecessors. Limited production of certain models creates immediate collectibility, with waiting lists at authorized dealers extending months or even years for the most sought-after references.

At M.S. Rau, we are proud to offer a meticulously curated selection of Rolex timepieces spanning various eras and models, backed by our long-standing reputation for excellence.

A Closer Look at Iconic Models

Rolex Submariner

Few watches are as universally recognized—or as universally admired—as the Rolex Submariner. The earliest references, such as the ref. 6204 and ref. 6205, had no crown guards and featured gilt dials with radium lume.

Holy Grails:

• Ref. 6538 "Big Crown": Worn by Sean Connery in Dr. No, with its oversized 8mm winding crown and no crown guards, this reference is one of the most coveted Submariners of all time.
• Ref. 6200 "King Sub": Ultra-rare, early model with an Explorer-style 3-6-9 dial and large crown.

Rolex GMT-Master & GMT-Master II

Designed in collaboration with Pan Am Airlines in 1954, the GMT-Master allowed pilots to track multiple time zones with its signature feature: a bidirectional 24-hour bezel and a fourth hand for tracking GMT.

Holy Grails:

• Ref. 6542: The original GMT-Master, with a fragile red and blue Bakelite bezel and no crown guards. Many were recalled due to radioactive lume, making untouched examples exceptionally rare.
• Pablo Picasso’s Rolex GMT-Master ref. 6542. Though Picasso was photographed wearing this watch, its whereabouts remain unknown to this day. Its discovery would be an extraordinary event.

Rolex Day-Date

Introduced in 1956, the Rolex Day-Date was the world’s first watch to display both the date and the day of the week spelled out in full. Known as "The President" thanks to its high-profile wearers and signature President bracelet, it remains a symbol of power and prestige.

Holy Grails:

• Khanjar & Omani Crest Dial Day-Dates: Commissioned by royalty and military leaders, these pieces are highly collectible due to their rarity and provenance.

Rolex Daytona

The Rolex Cosmograph Daytona remains one of the most desirable and collectible chronographs in the world. With its racing pedigree, exotic dials and celebrity associations, it’s in a category all its own.

Holy Grails:

• Paul Newman Daytona (Ref. 6239, 6241, etc.): Characterized by their Art Deco-style subdial fonts and square markers. The “John Player Special” version in yellow gold with a black dial is especially rare and valuable.
• Rolex Gem-Set Daytona El Primero Ref. 16528: Crafted in factory gem-set 18K yellow gold, this automatic chronograph is powered by the legendary Zenith El Primero movement—Rolex's first self-winding chronograph caliber.

Discover Your Next Iconic Timepiece at M.S. Rau

Rolex collecting is as much about nuance as it is about prestige. Every detail—from the shape of a crown guard to the color of lume—matters. Provenance, originality and historical context can dramatically affect a watch’s desirability and value.

Whether you’re just beginning your collecting journey or adding to an already impressive trove, Rolex offers an unparalleled world of depth, design and discovery.

When you buy Rolex, you acquire more than a precision timepiece—you become part of a legacy of innovation and excellence that spans over a century. At M.S. Rau, we take pride in offering exceptional examples that reflect this heritage, providing our clients with watches that serve not only as accurate timekeepers but also as tangible connections to history.

To explore our collection of Rolex watches for sale and experience the pinnacle of horological excellence, we invite you to visit our gallery or browse our online offerings.