Are you fascinated by the Victorian era’s rigid social structure, burgeoning industrialization and shifting gender norms? Join us on a fashionable journey through the era’s most intricate designs and revolutionary silhouettes.
Victorian Diamond Flower Pin, 23.10 Carats. M.S. Rau.
During the Victorian era, which spanned from the early 1830s to the beginning of the 20th century, the world was in a state of exponential growth. As most of the developed world was rapidly transforming from agrarian to industrial societies, fashion became an all-important visual language through which individuals could communicate their social status, wealth and even their moral character. The lavishness and attention to detail in clothing were not only a reflection of personal taste but also a symbol of affluence and social position.
As clothing production moved from the home to factories
, lace, corsets, ruffles and high collars began to play crucial roles in conveying class and distinction. As easy as it is for a 21st-century audience to mentally categorize the whole of Queen Victoria’s reign into a single fashion movement, it is important to realize that “Victorian Fashion” actually covers over 60 years of oscillating trends. In many ways, the period’s fashion trends changed as quickly as the 19th century’s industrial landscape. Though the emphasis on modesty and austerity was persistent throughout the decades, the Victorian era’s fashion trends changed constantly.
The Evolution of Victorian Women’s Fashion
1830s: The Pursuit of the "Ideal" Look
During the 1830s, wealthy women sought to achieve the coveted hourglass figure with a long, slim torso and voluptuous hips. This was achieved through tightly fitted corsets, layers of petticoats made of coarse hair and modest bonnets. This fashion trend emphasized modesty and portrayed an image of refinement.
1840s-1850s: The Rise of the Gothic Style
Victorian Pearl and Ruby Cuff. 19th century. M.S. Rau.
In the 1840s and 1850s, a more austere "Gothic" style gained popularity in both fashion and home furnishings. Tight corsets, sleeves and bonnets were simplified, allowing for more mobility. Sleeves flared out at the elbow, necessitating the use of under sleeves to maintain modesty. Petticoats were replaced by lightweight steel crinolines, creating the illusion of billowing fabric. Ornate pleats became a hallmark of wealth and style, and the invention of synthetic dyes introduced vibrant colors to clothing, though upper class women still embraced more subdued tones when it came to their evening wear.
1860s: Emphasis on Volume and Detail
During the early and mid-1860s, crinolines decreased in size at the top, shifting the volume to the backside. Bustles made of ruffles created the illusion of a more voluptuous rear, while trains became a standard feature of gowns. Ruffles and bows adorned dresses, and the increasing availability of economical materials led to excess fabric displays. The invention of the sewing machine enabled seamstresses to experiment with creative pleats and ruching.
1870s: Ornate Bustles and Polonaises
Jeune fille au manteau vert by Berthe Morisot. Circa 1870. M.S. Rau (Sold).
In the 1870s, bustles became even more ornate, while skirt volumes reduced. Detailing with drapery and patterns, including fringe, added an extravagant touch. The introduction of the polonaise, combining an overskirt and bodice, created an illusion of an exaggerated rear end. The shirtwaist, a female version of men's everyday wear, made its appearance, representing a push towards practicality in fashion.
1880s: Practicality and Simplicity
Autumn Garden Walk by John Atkinson Grimshaw. Painted 1880. M.S. Rau.
The 1880s witnessed a push for practicality, reflected in bathing costumes with smaller skirts and blazer-like jacket constructions. Ornamentation became less opulent, and simpler hat forms adorned with florals and ribbons gained popularity. Sleeves became thinner and tighter while necklines remained high, and jackets featured numerous buttons.
1890s: The Bell-Shaped Silhouette and Whispers of Liberation
A Flood by Frederick Morgan. Painted 1879. M.S. Rau (Sold).
The 1890s saw the abandonment of crinolines and bustles, with skirts taking on a simpler bell shape that flared naturally from the cinched waist. Jackets grew in size, featuring large sleeves and elaborate yet relatively masculine ornamentation. This period marked the rise of widespread tailoring, allowing store-bought and mass-produced items to have a custom appearance. The fashion of the 1890s hinted at the early stirrings of women's liberation, with styles that offered more freedom and flexibility compared to previous styles of Victorian society.
The Evolution of Victorian Men’s Fashion
Early Victorian Era (1830s-1850s):
In the early Victorian period, men’s fashion was more or a less a continuation of Regency-era fashion. Victorian men typically wore tailored trousers, waistcoats and frock coats. High-collared shirts, cravats and top hats were also popular. The silhouette emphasized a slim, elongated figure.
Mid-Victorian Era (1860s-1880s):
Pair of Portraits in the manner of Charles Baxter. Mid-19th century. M.S. Rau (Sold).
The mid-Victorian era saw notable changes in men's fashion. Much like with Victorian women's fashion, patrons wanted to implement the many variations that advanced technology and increasing wealth allowed. Lounge suits became more prevalent, featuring matching jackets and trousers. The sack coat, a loose-fitting coat, gained popularity. Waistcoats were still worn, often in contrasting colors or patterns. A new adaptation was the versatility of detachable pieces; shirts began to feature detachable collars and cuffs, and cravats were replaced by neckties. With the advent of mass-produced items, trousers became narrower and often needed suspenders to make up for their non-custom fit. The famed top hat remained a staple among Victorian men of this period.
Late Victorian Era (1890s-1900s):
Towards the end of the Victorian era, men's fashion mirrored women's fashion as it became more formal and structured. Three-piece suits, consisting of a matching jacket, waistcoat and trousers, became the standard. Jackets had wider lapels and were often single-breasted. Shirts had stiff detachable collars and were paired with bow ties or neckties. Hats such as bowlers and straw boaters gained popularity, and walking sticks became fashionable accessories.
Victorian Modesty: Rules and Reservations
Through the Keyhole by Moritz Stifter. Late Victorian Erotica. Late 19th century. M.S. Rau (Sold).
The allure and mythology surrounding Victorian etiquette and social expectations have, in many ways, taken on a life of their own. While it is true that wealthy women and men were expected to adhere to standards of visual modesty, highlighting one's figure was always of utmost importance during the Victorian era. Corsets, tightened to fantastical realms, all aimed to accentuate, not hide, a woman's figure and carefully concealed sexuality. Additionally, it was not uncommon for Victorian women to wear dresses or ball gowns that exposed their shoulders and upper chest, particularly at dinner parties and dances. Despite the outward adherence to societal expectations, moral values and religious beliefs, literature and primary sources abound with fascinating tales that reveal the bawdy and elicit nature of many Victorian lives.
The Mark of a Queen: Queen Victoria’s Fashionable Legacy
Still Life of Flag Iris by Queen Victoria. 1881. M.S. Rau (Sold).
Perhaps no other British royal was more of a trendsetter than Queen Victoria herself. Most notably, the famous Queen chose to wear white for her wedding to Prince Albert in 1840. This decision sparked a trend that continues to this day, as white wedding dresses became increasingly popular and symbolic of marital purity.
Queen Victoria's personal fashion choices also reflected the prevailing trends of the time. She favored elaborate, voluminous dresses with crinolines, corsets and intricate embellishments, embodying the opulence and extravagance associated with the Victorian era. Her affinity for luxurious fabrics, such as silk and velvet, and her preference for intricate lacework and embroidery set the tone for fashionable upper class women of the period.
Till Death Us Do Part by Edmund Blair Leighton. Painted 1878. M.S. Rau (Sold).
During the latter half of her life, Queen Victoria's mourning attire also greatly influenced mourning customs and clothing during the era. After the death of Prince Albert in 1861, the Queen entered a prolonged period of mourning and adopted a distinctive style of mourning dress, characterized by black garments, veils and other somber accessories. This mourning fashion, known as "widow's weeds," became widely emulated by women throughout society.
As firmly as Victorian literature and lore has gripped our society, the impact of the era’s fashion trends continue to intrigue and influence the world’s most important designers. Let the refinement of this era impact your next statement piece and explore our incredible collection of Victorian jewelry, furniture and more!
