CANVASES, CARATS AND CURIOSITIES

A Sparkling Start to Harry Winston Jewelry

Harry Winston’s journey to becoming one of the most iconic names in jewelry began with a modest upbringing in New York City. Born on March 1, 1896, Winston was the son of Jewish immigrants from Ukraine. His father, Jacob, owned a small jewelry shop, and it was there that young Harry was first introduced to the brilliant world of jewelry. This early exposure laid the foundation for his remarkable career.

Winston’s keen eye for gemstones became evident when he made his first major gem discovery at 12 years old. While browsing a pawnshop, he spotted an unassuming green stone in a tray of costume jewelry that the owner had dismissed as glass. Winston’s intuition told him otherwise. After purchasing the stone for just 25 cents—along with one other stone to keep from raising the pawnshop owner’s suspicions—he later confirmed it was a two-carat emerald. Two days later, he sold it for $800—equivalent to over $27,000 today. Quite the profit margin, especially for such a young man!

An enterprising young Harry Winston found an emerald of this weight at a pawn shop for 25 cents.

Though his family briefly moved to California in 1909, Winston soon returned to New York, where his passion for gemstones flourished. His hands-on experience in his father’s shop and his natural talent for recognizing quality made him a prodigy in the jewelry world. By 1920, Winston established his own business, The Premier Diamond Company.

A Rising Gem

At 24 years old, Harry Winston operated as a one-man business at The Premier Diamond Company on Fifth Avenue. Winston worked tirelessly to establish himself in the competitive world of jewelry. By the mid-1920s, his keen eye for exceptional gemstones and estates had earned him a reputation as a leading broker of extraordinary collections.

In 1926, Winston acquired the jewelry collection of Arabella Huntington, widow of a railroad tycoon, for $1.2 million. By transforming these outdated designs into modern masterpieces, Winston showcased his exceptional craftsmanship. This pivotal acquisition connected him with prominent families, royalty and industry leaders, granting him access to the world’s finest gemstones and cementing the foundation of his jewelry empire. In 1932, he began to manufacture jewelry under his own name, Harry H. Winston Jewels, Inc. which would become the iconic Harry Winston, Inc.

In 1934, the remarkable 726-carat Jonker diamond was discovered in South Africa. In a bold move, Winston acquired the diamond the following year, shipping it to New York via registered mail for just $0.64. This would not be the last diamond he mailed.

The Jonker became a sensation, embarking on a press tour that included a celebrated photo shoot with Shirley Temple. Ultimately, Winston transformed the rough diamond into 12 exquisite stones, with the largest weighing an impressive 125.35 carats. 

Shortly after this, the Winston Cluster was conceived. The House’s signature design embodies Winston's belief that diamonds should guide design through sculptural, multi-shaped diamonds set at varying angles to enhance their natural brilliance.

As Harry Winston’s business expanded, so did his presence in the jewelry world. In 1942, he moved into a townhouse at 7 East 51st Street, just steps from St. Patrick's Cathedral. This new location was not only home to the Winston family but also housed his showroom, design studio, workshop and loose stone division. The move symbolized a new chapter in his growing empire, where he continued to serve a discerning clientele with the world’s finest gemstones.

The King of Diamonds

By 1947, Winston had gained such recognition that Cosmopolitan magazine dubbed him the “King of Diamonds.” Renowned for his gemological expertise, Winston traveled the globe to find the world’s most extraordinary diamonds. In 1948, he met the Duke and Duchess of Windsor, and they purchased several pieces from him, including the famed McLean Diamond.

Winston’s collection continued to grow throughout the 1950s. By 1952, Life magazine reported that he owned the world’s second-largest collection of historic jewels, surpassed only by the British royal family. His acquisitions during this period included the remarkable 155-carat rough diamond he named the Winston Diamond after himself. After being cut into a flawless D-color pear-shaped stone weighing 62.05 carats, it was sold to a Middle Eastern client, only to be reunited with Winston years later when it was sold again.

One of Winston’s most iconic contributions to the world of gemstones was his donation of the Hope Diamond to the Smithsonian Institution in 1958. The monumental blue diamond was originally mined in 17th-century India and has been renowned for its size since the 18th century. The gem was once owned by King Louis XIV, though later stolen in 1792 and re-cut.

After possessing the historic diamond for a decade, Winston gifted it to the institution, ensuring its preservation for generations to come. He sent the 45.52-carat diamond to Washington D.C. via registered first-class mail. Once it safely arrived, the Hope Diamond became a centerpiece of the Smithsonian's National Gem Collection.

The Smithsonian also kept the mail wrapper in their collection!

Winston's influence grew beyond the world of gemstones into a pop culture icon. He pioneered the practice of lending jewelry to actresses for high-profile events, starting with Jennifer Jones at the Academy Awards. This tradition continued for decades, with stars like Katharine Hepburn and Marilyn Monroe sporting Harry Winston jewels on the red carpet. Winston’s creations also appeared in notable films, including Notorious (1946) and The Graduate (1967).

And who could forget the iconic line from Gentlemen Prefer Blondes (1953), when Marilyn Monroe, in all her glamour, sings "Diamonds Are a Girl's Best Friend" and playfully chimes, "Talk to me, Harry Winston, tell me all about it!"

By 1960, Harry Winston’s business had grown so rapidly that he needed more space to keep up with the demands of his expanding clientele. The solution? A move to 718 Fifth Avenue, a grand new location for Harry Winston, Inc. The move itself was an extraordinary feat, with Winston’s insurers estimating it as one of the largest transfers of jewels in history. The night before the move Winston selected his favorite pieces to personally pack for the journey up Fifth Avenue. One can only imagine his apprehension before moving millions of dollars worth of jewels five blocks down the street.

In 1968, Winston captured the world’s attention by broadcasting the cleaving of his latest acquisition, the massive 601-carat Lesotho diamond, live on television. The diamond eventually yielded eighteen stunning stones, including a 71.73-carat emerald cut diamond and a 40.42-carat marquise diamond, which was famously purchased by Aristotle Onassis as an engagement ring for Jacqueline Kennedy.

Luxurious Legacy

Winston continued to build his legacy until 1978 when he passed away in New York City at the age of 82. But his influence did not fade. In 1997, the Smithsonian Institution in Washington, D.C. opened the Harry Winston Gallery which continues to dazzle visitors. Through this lasting contribution and his iconic jewelry firm, Winston’s legacy as the "King of Diamonds" is immortalized, with his name forever linked to some of the most remarkable jewels in history.

Explore more fine jewelry at M.S. Rau, through our online collection, or visit us in person today!