Bijoux lumineux avec un col by Erté

Erté (Romain de Tirtoff)
1892-1990 | Russian-French

Bijoux lumineux avec un col
(Luminous Jewels with a Collar)

Inscribed “No. 18.624 / Musidora / Bijoux Lumineux” (en verso)
Gouache on paper

This extraordinary piece titled Bijoux lumineux avec un col or (Luminous Jewels with a Collar) was crafted as an integral component of the costume designs for Roland Petit's 1979 ballet, Parisiana, featuring his wife, Zizi Jeanmarie, in the lead role. Within the zeitgeist of 20th-century dance, Petit and Jeanmaire stand as luminaries whose profound influence has left an indelible mark on the artistic landscape. Their artistic collaboration not only steered the course of modern ballet but also positioned them as pivotal embodiments of the spirited essence of Parisian artistry.

This trio of distinct gouache pieces presents Erté's resplendent jewelry designs that adorned Jeanmaire during the course of this pioneering ballet. Enveloped in a backdrop of profound blackness, three unique costume concepts radiate from each portrayal of Jeanmarie's iconic bobbed hairstyle and elegant silhouette. The commanding geometric cufflink, the turquoise Egyptian-style collar, and the meticulously adorned wrist cuff all exude the enchanting allure of the Art Deco epoch. Characterized by their embellished grandeur and radiant luminosity, these designs are further elevated by the unparalleled artistry of the dancer herself.

Russian-French visionary Romain de Tirtoff (1892-1990), popularly known as Erté, began his artistic journey in the culturally rich city of St. Petersburg, where he developed an early fondness for ballet and theatrical performances. He moved to Paris in 1912 to study architecture, and quickly found his creative niche in crafting fantastical costumes for the city’s bustling nightlife. Erté‘s expertise, refined under the guidance of the famed Paul Poiret, captured the attention of Harper’s Bazaar, marking the beginning of a significant partnership that spanned from 1915 to 1936. The artist also designed sets for notable cinematic masterpieces including Ben Hur and La Bohème, and created sets and costumes for cabarets, operas and other performances at the Folies-Bergères, Bal Tabarin, the Théâtre du Bataclan and Le Casino de Paris. Erté was a trailblazer whose colorful creations shaped the groundbreaking Art Deco era more than any other, leaving an indelible mark on the history of art and design. His artworks reside in prestigious museum collections worldwide, including the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, the Victoria & Albert Museum in London and the Los Angeles County Museum of Art.

Painted 1979

Paper: 3 1/2“ high x 10 1/2” wide
Frame: 9 3/4“ high x 17" wide x 3/4" deep

Provenance:
Private collection, Paris
M.S. Rau, New Orleans