Cheveux noirs by Erté

Erté (Romain de Tirtoff)
1892-1990 | Russian-French

Cheveux noirs
(Dark Hair)

Signed “Erté” (lower center)
Inscribed "Cheveux Noirs / 1 mannequin / n°18.16 / Composition originale" (en verso)
Gouache on paper

This original gouache from the creative mind of Erté entitled Cheveux noirs embodies the Art Deco glamour and cheeky sensuality for which the artist’s works are so beloved. Created for Roland Petit, one of Erté’s closest confidants, this costume design showcases the oft-called "Father of Art Deco’s groundbreaking creativity and daring sense of fashion. Roland Petit was a transformative figure in 20th-century ballet, known for infusing contemporary and theatrical elements into classical ballet traditions. His innovative choreographies brought the visionary great renown and celebrity. Erté’s creations for Petit made the performances even more transcendent, adding greater visual spectacle to the dancers onstage.

In Cheveux noirs, Erté fashions an elaborate costume from what appears to be only black hair. The dancer’s profusion of onyx-hued locks are gathered into a striking ponytail and she holds the voluminous and curly mane out like a fur stole. A scant layer of thin strands falls over the model’s face, creating a sheer veil-like effect. While her chest is entirely bare, Erté includes a curly tuft of hair that resembles a traditional fig-leaf covering in the figure’s lower region. Both shockingly risqué and fashionably clever, this artful and over-the-top costume epitomizes the Art Deco drama and daring sensuality of Erté‘s oeuvre.

Russian-French visionary Romain de Tirtoff (1892-1990), popularly known as Erté, began his artistic journey in the culturally rich city of St. Petersburg, where he developed an early fondness for ballet and theatrical performances. He moved to Paris in 1912 to study architecture, and quickly found his creative niche in crafting fantastical costumes for the city’s bustling nightlife. Erté‘s expertise, refined under the guidance of the famed Paul Poiret, captured the attention of Harper’s Bazaar, marking the beginning of a significant partnership that spanned from 1915 to 1936. The artist also designed sets for notable cinematic masterpieces including Ben Hur and La Bohème, and created sets and costumes for cabarets, operas and other performances at the Folies Bergère, Bal Tabarin, the Théâtre du Bataclan and Le Casino de Paris. Often remembered as the “Father of Art Deco,” Erté was a trailblazer whose colorful creations shaped the groundbreaking Art Deco era more than any other, leaving an indelible mark on the history of art and design. His artworks reside in prestigious museum collections worldwide, including the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, the Victoria & Albert Museum in London and the Los Angeles County Museum of Art. 

Circa 1969

Paper: 13 3/4” high by 9 1/2” wide
Frame: 20 3/4” high by 16 7/8” wide by 3/4" deep

Exhibitions:
M.S. Rau, New Orleans, Erté and the Era of Art Deco, October 14, 2023 - January 3, 2024

Provenance:
Private collection, Paris
M.S. Rau, New Orleans