La mariée by Erté

Erté (Romain de Tirtoff)
1892-1990 | Russian-French

La mariée
The bride

Signed “Erté” (lower right)
Inscribed n°5999(en verso)
Gouache on paper

A quintessential ensemble from any clothing designer, Erté’s La mariée paints the celebrated artist’s take on an Art Deco era bride. Free of a large ballgown skirt or tulle veil, Erté’s dramatic interpretation of bridal attire is anything but typical, showcasing the Art Deco glamour and over-the-top drama for which the Erté’s designs are so beloved. Short, sensual, detailed and daring, this matrimonial ensemble underscores the oft-called Father of Art Deco’s sartorial genius and groundbreaking knack for pushing the creative envelope.

Erté’s creation features a long column-like buttoned bodice and high neckline, but appears entirely backless, exposing his model’s shoulders, arms and sides. The dress is punctuated by a short saucer-like skirt that features a profusion of beaded embellishments. The ensemble is capped off with a large white bow and a short cascading veil that comes together in dramatic angular pleats. This chic and unique design embodies the dramatic flair for which Erté’s fashions are revered today, showcasing his unique ability to reinterpret classic designs and silhouettes with groundbreaking modernity and whimsy.

Russian-French visionary Romain de Tirtoff (1892-1990), popularly known as Erté, began his artistic journey in the culturally rich city of St. Petersburg, where he developed an early fondness for ballet and theatrical performances. He moved to Paris in 1912 to study architecture, and quickly found his creative niche in crafting fantastical costumes for the city’s bustling nightlife. Erté‘s expertise, refined under the guidance of the famed Paul Poiret, captured the attention of Harper’s Bazaar, marking the beginning of a significant partnership that spanned from 1915 to 1936. The artist also designed sets for notable cinematic masterpieces including Ben Hur and La Bohème, and created sets and costumes for cabarets, operas and other performances at the Folies-Bergères, Bal Tabarin, the Théâtre du Bataclan and Le Casino de Paris. Often remembered as the “Father of Art Deco,” Erté was a trailblazer whose colorful creations shaped the groundbreaking Art Deco era more than any other, leaving an indelible mark on the history of art and design. His artworks reside in prestigious museum collections worldwide, including the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, the Victoria & Albert Museum in London and the Los Angeles County Museum of Art. 

Circa 1941

Paper: 14” high by 10” wide
Frame: 20 3/4” high by 16 7/8” wide by 5/8" deep

Exhibitions:
M.S. Rau, New Orleans, Erté and the Era of Art Deco, October 14, 2023 - January 3, 2024

Provenance:
Private collection, Paris
M.S. Rau, New Orleans