Le petit cardinal noir by Erté

Erté (Romain de Tirtoff)
1892-1990 | Russian-French

Le petit cardinal noir (“The Little Black Cardinal”)

Signed “Erté” (lower right)
Gouache on paper

This original gouache from the creative mind of Erté entitled Le petit cardinal noir puts the spotlight on Erté’s tongue-in-cheek artistry. Oft-called “Father of Art Deco,” this clever and somewhat irreverent work showcases the more whimsical side of Erté’s glamorous oeuvre. 

Merging Art Deco fashion with the iconography of the Catholic Church, Erté dresses his “cardinal” in an all-black ensemble, daring to envision the attire in a dark hue rather than the traditional red color. Complete with the traditional small “zucchetto” hat, Erté’s outfit includes the layered alb robes and cloak and tied ascot. Erté transforms the traditional garb into a high fashion ensemble, painting the cloaks with dramatic structural collars and pleats and pairing the robes with cropped shorts, pointed high heels and a luxurious white fur muff. Erté’s precise lines and striking black-and-white color palette pop with dazzling intensity. This elegant gouache on paper underscores Erté’s clever imagination, sophisticated point of view and unimpeachable sartorial genius.

Russian-French visionary Romain de Tirtoff (1892-1990), popularly known as Erté, began his artistic journey in the culturally rich city of St. Petersburg, where he developed an early fondness for ballet and theatrical performances. He moved to Paris in 1912 to study architecture, and quickly found his creative niche in crafting fantastical costumes for the city’s bustling nightlife. Erté‘s expertise, refined under the guidance of the famed Paul Poiret, captured the attention of Harper’s Bazaar, marking the beginning of a significant partnership that spanned from 1915 to 1936. The artist also designed sets for notable cinematic masterpieces including Ben Hur and La Bohème, and created sets and costumes for cabarets, operas and other performances at the Folies-Bergères, Bal Tabarin, the Théâtre du Bataclan and Le Casino de Paris. Often remembered as the “Father of Art Deco,” Erté was a trailblazer whose colorful creations shaped the groundbreaking Art Deco era more than any other, leaving an indelible mark on the history of art and design. His artworks reside in prestigious museum collections worldwide, including the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, the Victoria & Albert Museum in London and the Los Angeles County Museum of Art. 

Painted Circa 1970

Paper: 14 1/2” high by 10” wide
Frame: 20 3/4” high by 16 1/8” wide by 3/4" deep

Exhibitions:
M.S. Rau, New Orleans, Erté and the Era of Art Deco, October 14, 2023 - January 3, 2024

Provenance:
Private collection, Paris
M.S. Rau, New Orleans